Cover Crab and green pepper ravioli (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
Crab and green pepper ravioli (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
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The thirty-something Alsatian breathes new life into The Peninsula Manila’s 47-year-old fine dining restaurant, drawing flavours from his travels, his training under a 3 Michelin-starred chef, and his grandma’s cooking
I have dined at The Peninsula Manila’s fine dining spot Old Manila many times over the years. I have enjoyed the culinary talents of different chefs during many visits, all very competent albeit in varying degrees and with contrasting cooking styles. However, I must admit that I have not seen its dining room as full as it is now in the first few months that new chef de cuisine Gaël Kubler has taken the reigns to its almost semi-centennial kitchen.
There are two kinds of gourmands in the Manila fine dining scene. The first one follows all the global trends and is privy to all the top restaurant lists, and if budget permits, will set out to taste them all during their travels or at events when these chefs are flown in to collaborate with their local counterparts. These are the adventure-seekers— always on the lookout for what is gastronomically thrilling and will pay tens of thousands of pesos for a seat at the most exclusive tables. The second kind of gourmand also spares no expense for a top-notch gastronomic experience, but is the type that finds comfort in the familiar and knows exactly what they prefer and sticks to it. They, too, have dined in the finest restaurants abroad and perhaps have a cellar full of only the best vintages, which they might pair with lovely French cheeses and pates or a beautifully grilled steak.
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Above Old Manila chef de cuisine Gael Kubler (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
Old Manila chef de cuisine Gael Kubler (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
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It is the second kind of discerning diner that has found its way back to Old Manila. This group must have been busy spreading the news because word seemed to have unfurled quickly that there is a new Frenchman in the kitchen and he knows how to do “traditional” right.
The menu is straightforward enough— that à la carte configuration with the promise of substantial servings of appetiser, main course, and dessert. No tasting menu here, at least for now. In the few months chef Gaël has moved to the Philippines, he has spent his time sourcing ingredients locally, and then scouring the globe for the things that are better elsewhere. “I will be sourcing ingredients from local suppliers who can assure me of the freshest vegetables from Tagaytay and Batangas, with others flown in daily from Mindanao,” he explains. “We also have suppliers for top-quality fish and seafood that are ethically and sustainably sourced, or responsibly farmed. Australian premium beef will complement Wagyu meat that we are importing from Japan. I will cook them simply, enhancing or drawing out their natural flavours as honestly as possible. Simplicity and honesty in the kitchen are absolutely essential, just like my grandmother taught me.”
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Above Old Manila Photos - Veal Sweetbread i
Old Manila Photos - Veal Sweetbread i
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It is a promise to his grandmother that put him on the path to becoming a chef. Fresh out of culinary school in Strasburg, the then 19-year-old immediately started work with three-Michelin-starred chef Marc Haeberlin at L’Auberge de I’ll as his commis for nearly two years. He said he wanted to learn from one of the greatest chefs in France, and the lessons he learned he still brings with him. “First, that I am only as good as my team. I must show them the same care and respect that I do our guests. Second, respect for the produce and simplicity, flavour, and honesty in my dishes. He also drilled in me discipline and taught me to be less stubborn.” That was followed by stints in some of the finest restaurants in the country, after which he got a job at The Ritz London to experience working internationally and to practice his English. There, he was mentored by three-star chef Michael Nizzero where he learned refinement, respect for ingredients, and a deeper understanding of flavour. The budding globetrotter eventually found himself in New Zealand, where he worked as the sous chef of Ki Mäha which won “Best Opening in New Zealand” in 2018.
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Above Old Manila Photos - Old Manila Team
Above Old Manila Photos - Ahi Tuna Carpaccio i
Old Manila Photos - Old Manila Team
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Five years later, chef Gaël is settling in nicely in Manila with his new wife, bringing an exciting new international perspective to The Peninsula Manila’s signature restaurant. “I tried to study the Filipino diners,” he says, “what they like and do not like. In every country, it’s always different, the preferences. But, the cuisine never changes. This is French cuisine which is always focused on the best ingredients.” The menu reads like the best of the best classic French dishes, with starters like Wagyu beef tartare, veal sweetbread, and a must-try Jerusalem artichoke velouté. Access to fresh seafood means diners can slurp Gallagher oysters and enjoy slices of fresh ahi tuna flavoured with calamansi gel, ginger oil and coconut dressing.
For the mains, the turbot, duck breast, and tournedos Rossini come highly recommended, and they are all classics with good reason. There are good steaks for those who love it, and their Wagyu tomahawk cooked to a perfect bright pink will put some of the city’s best steakhouses to shame. I was surprised when the French chef recommended and served it, but I suppose it is important to point out that the refined French kitchen is also a master of the grill. To wrap up the meal, the whimsical creations of longtime head pastry chef Annlyn Solano will have guests nibbling from chocolate trees and eating raspberry popsicles.
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Pear and hazelnut (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
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Above Old Manila chef de cuisine Gael Kubler (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
Old Manila chef de cuisine Gael Kubler (Photo courtesy of Old Manila)
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Chef Gaël shows that he has something to offer both the traditional gourmand and the finicky gastronome, opening up Old Manila to the ever-growing local dining public. Young and well-travelled, but with his feet firmly planted in his classical training, his devotion to seasonal ingredients is married to the promise of bringing out the best in them, giving us diners something to truly look forward to during his tenure. His initial menu is a great way to introduce his talents to Manila, giving us what we want and know. But, soon, the good chef plans to infuse more of his complex personality into his cuisine. He says, as he gives a rare toothy grin: “Hopefully, by early next year, the menu will not be about what I learned about Filipinos, but it will be Filipinos learning more about me.”
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
