Cover Nicholas Wong
Nicholas Wong
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We chat with the Ipoh-born banker turned hotelier and chef about his favourite eats around his home country
Nicholas Wong was on track to a thriving career in the investment banking sector, having graduated with a degree in Economics from the prestigious University College London and getting a job at the multinational investment bank and financial services company UBS in London. After a few years in the industry, Wong took a leap of faith and ventured into the hospitality industry.
Read more: A Taste of Home: Hong Kong-based Gavin Chin shares his favourite beef noodles in Kuala Lumpur
Fast forward to October 2020, during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, Wong took over a 150-year-old building and founded Hotel de Trois with the mission of bringing more Asian skiers to the region. The hotel is set in the picturesque ski domain of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains in Mont Blanc, France, where Wong now resides with his wife, Yevgeniya Tsoy, and son full-time.
Above Wong calls himself an ‘accidental chef’
Wong calls himself an ‘accidental chef’
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As the sole owner of Hotel de Trois, Wong was also inadvertently put into the chef spotlight, leading the hotel’s restaurant, Bistro le Pasar, which serves a seasonal menu combining Asian flavours and local French ingredients. Taking inspiration from his favourite foods, Wong curates the menus that showcase flavours from both his and his wife’s heritages.
The Ipoh native recalls many fond foodie memories of his home country: “The biggest decision of the day would be choosing what to eat, and coming from a food mecca like Ipoh, the answer wasn’t always straightforward.” In a conversation with Tatler, Wong shares his favourite Malaysian eats and where he goes to get his fix when visiting home.
What do you miss most about eating in Malaysia?
Away from culinary techniques or inventions, it always amazes me how an uncle or aunty at a local hawker stall can make the same creation for three decades, perfecting the recipe through specialisation and repetition.
What is the first dish you eat when you return, and where do you go for it?
I usually pay the elderly couple who has been serving wantan mee at the Ipoh Stadium Food Court for over 30 years a visit when I come home. It goes without saying that the flavours and consistency are just mind-boggling! Each time I visit, it feels like I’m visiting family, as I literally grew up eating at this same stall after I finished badminton training.
What are some other dishes that you think everyone should try when in Malaysia?
The desserts are always underrated and deserve a special mention apart from the usual suspects. Ais kacang, pisang goreng, tau foo fa are all well worth a try.
See also: The best wantan mee in Malaysia, according to chefs
Do you have a favourite restaurant in Malaysia?
Cilantro Restaurant! I still remember my first bite of its angel hair lobster pasta back when I was 12 years old. It still feels like a treat when I go there now. On the other end of the spectrum, I love heading to any pasar malam, as it is a pulse on what is trendy and popular among the Malaysian tastebuds.
If you had guests from abroad, where would you take them to get a taste of Malaysia?
Personally, I would always recommend nasi lemak to my foreign pals, but if they can’t handle the heat, I would take them for bak kut teh. If that goes unappreciated, there is bound to be something for everyone at Little Penang Café or Madam Kwan’s in KLCC.
Where do you like to catch up with old friends over drinks?
I always propose hotel bars and restaurants in KL to meet up with old friends. Personally, I have never experienced better service anywhere than Asian hotels. It also gives me an opportunity to sample the aesthetics and décor too.
Don’t miss: The best bak kut teh in Malaysia, according to chefs
Do you have a go-to café here?
Since leaving London to move to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, I’ve missed bookshops and theatres the most. Kinokuniya KLCC has always been the gold standard of bookstores for me since I was a teenager. The little café there is a sanctuary for when I am back in Malaysia.
Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home in France?
I might have to redefine the term ‘authentic’ and ‘home’ here, as my wife, who is Korean and grew up in Kazakhstan, is the chef in the household. My tastebuds are tailored to Korean food. The closest Asian flavours to home would be along the strain of Korean and Japanese. I always enjoy my meals at SACHI in Mandarin Oriental Geneva, it also gives me ideas on how best to present Asian dishes in a way that is well received by the European foodie.
Do you stock up on Malaysian ingredients when flying back to France?
Just some bak kut teh spices for the cold winter nights.
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Photography: Emran Shaqif
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Amanda is a KL-born and raised third culture kid, who lives to eat. If not found reading, writing for Tatler Dining, or snacking, she is most likely playing with her dog, Katsu, sourcing new Birkenstocks, or looking for a new restaurant to venture to.
Follow her on Instagram at @feedingamanda.
