Tatler Dining speaks with the former head chef of Hong Kong's Brut about his top dining and drinking picks from KL to Perak
Born and raised in Australia, Gavin Chin argues he is hardly Malaysian at this point even though his parents are from Ipoh. However, his love for Malaysian cuisine burns bright in his third culture life.
"It's an absolute food paradise," beams Chin, 34. He grew up eating his mother's cooking and visiting Ipoh, where his family is from, and is of the opinion that Malaysian food is unbeatable.
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His foray into food also stems from this experience. "From young, I worked in my mum’s restaurant. I was born and raised in the kitchen," explains Chin. "At 10, I learned how to answer the phone, take orders, clear tables, and follow my mum on deliveries while making sure I had the exact change for the customer. In a way, I didn’t get into food; it just became my life and what I enjoyed."
After a brief break from the industry to realign his passions, he became the head chef of Brut in Hong Kong from 2020 to 2023. This year, he has plans to open his own restaurant, Culture.
Through his travels to Malaysia, Chin has gathered a few favourites spots in the country where he fuels up on local food and cocktails.
What do you miss most about eating in Malaysia?
I took my first trip to Kuala Lumpur alone at seven and since then, I've visited every year. Ipoh, Kampar, and KL are food paradises to me, so I really miss the diverse hawker scene. The hustle and bustle of old Imbi Market, the amazing broths bubbling away, and woks tossing char kuey teow like a dance between noodles and flame, the wok hei (breath of the wok)—I miss it all. And I love sour plum juice, the ultimate balance of sweet, salty and sour.
I love Perth, where I grew up, but food in Australia was bland in comparison..
What is the first dish you eat when you return and where do you go for it?
As soon as I land in KL, my Uncle Eddie knows to bring me to Imbi Market first thing in the morning for deep-roasted kopi and charcoal-toasted kaya toast. I love dipping my kaya toast in my runny eggs with soy and pepper. In the afternoon, he knows I'd be dying for that melt-in-your-mouth char siu, which we can only get at Restoran Char Siew Yoong in Taman Pertama.