Cover Kwan Swee Lian is Madam Kwan (Photo: Instagram/@madamkwans)
Kwan Swee Lian is Madam Kwan (Photo: Instagram/@madamkwans)
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Datin Maureen Ooi, CEO of Madam Kwan’s, shares about building and honouring her mother-in-law’s legacy
Known for its vibrant Malaysian fare that includes its famous renditions of nasi bojari and nasi lemak, Madam Kwan’s is a household name in Malaysia. The family-run restaurant boasts 16 outlets across the country, 12 of which are in the Klang Valley alone.
The woman responsible for the delicious flavours at Madam Kwan’s is Kwan Swee Lian, 90, who is often seen in her trademark hat, glasses, and sweet smile. She started her career in the food industry in 1977 and now runs Madam Kwan’s alongside her son, Datuk Rudy Foo, and daughter-in-law, Datin Maureen Ooi.
Read more: Mother’s Day 2023: The ultimate guide to dining out
In celebration of Mother’s Day, Tatler speaks to Ooi about working with her mother-in-law and honouring her legacy.
Above Lunar New Year family portrait: Kwan Swee Lian, Datin Maureen Ooi, and Datuk Rudy Foo (Photo: Courtesy of Datin Maureen Ooi)
Lunar New Year family portrait: Kwan Swee Lian, Datin Maureen Ooi, and Datuk Rudy Foo (Photo: Courtesy of Datin Maureen Ooi)
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Kwan was a beautician in the 1950s with her own beauty salon, Sakura Salon. Two decades later, the salon was transformed into Sakura Restaurant, which marked her debut in the F&B industry. Sakura was well-known for its nasi lemak but it folded in 1997.
In 1999, her youngest son, Datuk Rudy Foo, and his wife, Datin Maureen Ooi established Madam Kwan's in honour of her. “We started Madam Kwan’s to give her back the kitchen that she loves so much and dedicated so much of her life to,” explains Ooi.
Kwan is a perfectionist, working and reworking every recipe until she is completely satisfied. To this day, Kwan, who turns 90 this year, insists on being very specific about the cooking techniques, often showing up at her central kitchen to ensure that.
With their matriarch’s recipes, Foo and Ooi grew Madam Kwan’s into a chain of restaurants. Choosing to work in the food industry is no surprise considering the whole family has an appreciation for good food. “Our family life revolves around food,” beams Ooi. “We all have sharp taste buds, and value taste and quality of ingredients.”
See also: The best hawker breakfast in Malaysia, according to chefs
“She was the first lady to bring nasi lemak and other local dishes into an indoor, air-conditioned environment,” remarks Ooi about her mother-in-law’s influence. “Back then, you could only find hotels doing it, so I would definitely say she was a trendsetter.”
Ooi is now focused on preserving traditional values in a fast-paced and constantly evolving F&B scene.
“My husband and I are modern leaders and avid learners,” elaborates Ooi. “We took mum’s traditional values and incorporated them into our evolving leadership, making it a good combination as it results in the best of both worlds.”
On Kwan’s part, working alongside her family members means a lot to her. "My daily routine revolves around the restaurant and its legacy. I have a special place for Malaysian cuisine deep in my heart,” says Kwan. “I’m lucky that my passion is in sync with my work.”
“For a family business to work, you have to have a very strong common purpose,” states Ooi. “Both the stakeholders and management have to be clear about our goals, one of which is honouring Madam Kwan’s legacy.”
Both Kwan and Ooi are delighted that Madam Kwan’s food has touched so many. “We had an elderly Australian customer, Mr John, who dined at our restaurant five to six times a week until he passed on,” shares Ooi. “Having that kind of connection with people is not something money can buy. Sharing Madam Kwan’s food with people like Mr. John is what makes me want to wake up and do what I do with so much love and care.”
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Amanda is a KL-born and raised third culture kid, who lives to eat. If not found reading, writing for Tatler Dining, or snacking, she is most likely playing with her dog, Katsu, sourcing new Birkenstocks, or looking for a new restaurant to venture to.
Follow her on Instagram at @feedingamanda.
