Croissant maker Michael ‘Old Man’ Teh shares his expertise

We visit The Baker’s Workshop to gain an insight into the intricacies of croissant making

Located inside a house along Jalan Gasing, Kuala Lumpur, is Michael Teh’s studio, The Baker’s Workshop. It is here that he conducts pastry classes. Recognised across Malaysia as the expert when it comes to baked goods, Teh has provided consulting services to many cafés during his time in the industry, which is approaching 10 years.

Other than commercial classes, Teh also hosts masterclasses for the public twice a week, teaching home bakers and pastry aficionados the art of making hand-rolled croissants. “From the time I started my public classes in May 2020, I have taught more than 1,800 students,” he impressively announces.

Croissants by Old Man Teh at The Baker's Workshop

Above Freshly baked croissants

While Teh is originally trained as a hairstylist, pastry has always been a passion of his. “I would find myself frequenting bakeries and bread shops. When my financial abilities allowed me to do so, I decided to start baking behind my salon.”

In 2009, even before Teh baked his first loaf of bread, he invested in commercial baking products, from professional ovens to large freezers. Teaching himself the proper techniques of pastry through YouTube, Teh perfected his craft through trial and error. In 2013, Teh opened his first cafe, Touché Pastries & More. Subsequently, he also founded The Dough Factory and Noon Viennoiserie.

Above Teh rolling laminated dough

Above Teh shaping the dough into croissants

During the first lockdown in 2020, Teh began conducting pasty classes, to which the response was phenomenal. Through his workshops, he aims to educate the public about the craft in an effort to push the local pastry scene forward.

While Teh’s speed and precise execution make the art look simple, it is anything but. “While croissants are the most classic pastry, they are also the hardest, due to the shape and form," he says. "With so many layers, it is not easy to make sure everything is consistent.”

Above Teh in his workshop

During the demonstration, he explains the reasoning behind each step of the process: “It is important to understand the purpose of each technique—why we fold, rest and roll the dough.”

Immaculate precision is involved, from rolling croissants out to the exact millimetre to controlled temperature and speed. He details the steps on a whiteboard, bringing me back to school as I focus attentively, while his hands work like clockwork to manipulate the dough.

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Above Derry and Dave, Teh's two sons

Teh’s expertise has passed to his two sons, Derry and Dave, who work with the dough in the same experienced manner as their father. Derry runs Ground Coffee, while his brother is still pursuing his masters.

After Derry gently brushes each proofed croissant with a layer of egg wash, his father slides the tray of glistening pastries into the oven. “These bake for 17-18 minutes in an oven with top heating of 250°C and bottom heating of 170°C,” Teh explains.

Above Proofed croissants being slid into the oven

Now, Teh travels to neighbouring countries to share his expertise—he had just returned from a masterclass he hosted in Bangkok. When asked if he has any advice for aspiring bakers, he doesn’t miss a beat when he answers: “Passion and practice. Working with pastry is an art, and every artist has to be passionate, while practice allows you to progress.”

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Credits

Photography

Teo Qing Hui

Topics

Old Man Teh Croissant Pastry

Tatler Asia

Croissant master Michael ‘Old Man’ Teh shares his expertise