Cover Folds Patisserie's kaya croissant (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
Folds Patisserie's kaya croissant (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
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From pandan-infused lamingtons to nasi lemak tarts, we talk to the founder of Folds Patisserie about how she crafts familiar Southeast Asian delights with a Kiwi twist
Scrolling through the depths of Instagram one evening, I came across a video of a nasi lemak tart filled generously with sambal and topped with all the trimmings—in this case, cucumber, egg mayonnaise, and ikan bilis. What intrigues me most, however, is that Folds Patisserie, where the aforementioned tart is being made, is 10 hours away from Kuala Lumpur in Auckland, New Zealand.
Folds Patisserie’s founder, Wendy Lau, was born in Miri, Sarawak, but grew up and spent most of her life in Brunei. “There was no access to drinking, so spending time with friends and family revolved around food,” the friendly business owner tells me when I speak to her for the first time over a call. “My parents are both from Sibu, and we ate Fuzhou cuisine at home, which is similar to Brunei’s food.”
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Above Wendy Lau (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
Above Wendy Lau and her parents (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
Wendy Lau (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
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Lau always had a knack for pastry and often baked for school events and parties. Her family moved to New Zealand in 2016, where she continued her studies. After that, she worked in the hospitality industry and realised there was a lack of Southeast Asian influence in pastries.
“I began an online business selling baked goods a few months after the pandemic, and the response from customers was so positive, I finally established a physical shop in 2020,” she enthuses.
Above Folds Patisserie (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
Folds Patisserie (Photo: Folds Patisserie)
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When it comes to inspiration, she looks back on the treats that filled her childhood. “Growing up, we would go to the pasar malam to eat all kinds of snacks, and I often try to replicate those flavours,” she says. “Desserts in New Zealand are also on the sweet side, so I try to cater to the Asian palate, as we tend towards treats with less sugar.”
Lau’s most popular creations are the ones with an ingredient that is all too familiar to Malaysians—pandan. “It is rare in New Zealand, but a flavour everyone really enjoys,” she enthuses. One of Folds Patisserie’s most popular items is the pandan lamington, made with a pandan sponge surrounding a coconut jelly akin to agar-agar. “The lamington is a popular dessert here, so this bridges New Zealand and Malaysian culture,” she says.
Another popular item that makes use of the fragrant leaf is the onde-onde swiss roll, made with pandan sponge, and filled with coconut cream and freshly grated coconut cooked in gula Melaka.
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I learned the aforementioned nasi lemak tart that gripped my attention is a special item on the high tea menu conceptualised by Lau and her sister. “Most high teas consist of scones, jam, and sandwiches, but I wanted to draw from my roots,” she says. “Nasi lemak is so significant to our culture, and we take all the elements of the dish and turn it into a bite-sized morsel.” A tart base made with chicken powder is topped with sambal and cucumber jelly and crowned with egg mayonnaise and crispy fried ikan bilis.
Another savoury treat on the high tea menu is the laksa pie. “Pie is everywhere in New Zealand, and this is our Malaysian take on it,” she says. The size of a cupcake, the pie is made with a spicy seafood laksa filling with fish balls and prawns.
Running a Southeast Asian bakery in New Zealand does not come without difficulties, especially when sourcing ingredients. However, what Lau looks forward to most is opening the eyes of customers who have not been exposed to Malaysian and Bruneian culture, as well as those native to Southeast Asia, who recognise the flavours she lovingly incorporates and recalling their own fond memories growing up.
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
