Cover Langosta at Bacatá (Photo: Courtesy of Marie Wee LLP)
Langosta at Bacatá (Photo: Courtesy of Marie Wee LLP)
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Previously the chef-owner of the well-loved Preludio, Arévalo sets out to bring Colombian flavours to Singaporean dining tables
Fernando Arévalo’s Preludio became a hit when it opened on its corner of Cecil Street in 2018. Critics, in particular, praised the chef-owner’s deft ability to channel his upbringing, experiences, and travels into eclectic autobiographical menus, or “chapters”, resulting in deeply personal dishes showcasing his distinct Colombian-Italian flair. So when it was announced that Preludio was closing with a new concept in its stead, gourmands looked excitedly to see where the talented chef would take their taste buds next.
Enter Bacatá, Arévalo’s newest concept to take over the space at Preludio. Where Preludio was bright and elegant with warm colours and white walls, Bacatá is undoubtedly edgier and sexier with dark grey walls and gold-accented alcoves featuring intricate vases delicately threaded by a Colombian artist. “I envision Bacatá as someone wearing a tuxedo with sneakers—there is that mix of elegance with playfulness, rule-breaking and edge,” Arévalo says. “I have always loved contrast, and it is a crucial part of my style when I do creative work. A tuxedo with sneakers is how we envision balance and contrast to create a new vibrant environment.” This ethos is found everywhere, from the sweeping butterfly motifs on the ceiling to brilliantly-coloured masks greeting you at the door—a playful distinction to the otherwise sleek and minimalist interiors. All the chairs and decorative vases and chairs are sourced from Colombia, and lively Latin American music sets the mood.
Don't miss: 5 Reasons To Visit Preludio
Above Arroz caldoso at Bacatá, served in a smoked eel and uni cream
Arroz caldoso at Bacatá, served in a smoked eel and uni cream
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Bacatá is the archaic name for Bogotá, the Colombian capital where Arévalo was born. It’s a fitting name that calls to mind the rich culinary history that Colombia possesses, bearing influences from Europe, Africa, and its indigenous population to result in a colourful melting pot of cultures. It provides ample material for Arévalo to pull on for his dishes, which “paint a picture with Colombian colours”. “Preludio was autobiographical and very personal to my experiences. Bacatá is not about me, but rather about where I come from and the celebration of that culture,” he tells us, citing his family and his upbringing in Colombia as major influences in both his life and his cooking. “I am just a messenger. Bacatá is a way to feel and see what Colombia is like, and each dish is remembering an emotion that comes from Colombia.”
Arévalo’s simple philosophy is evident in dishes like the arroz caldoso, a dish of Spanish origin that literally means “brothy rice”. His version sees arborio rice cooked like sushi rice instead, paired with N25 caviar and doused in a cream of smoked eel and uni, giving it an incredibly umami profile with a hint of brine from the caviar. Another favourite is the langosta, which sees Boston lobster served in an ajiaco (potato soup) made with Andes potatoes, accompanied by grilled white corn and capers. It’s a thick and full-bodied soup that’s elevated by the plump and fresh lobsters; the sweet corn and the briny capers add touches of lifting brightness to the dish that make it dangerously addictive. Both are premium top-ups in Arévalo’s tasting menu, executive set lunch and à la carte menu, which includes other delights like the presa. It features razor-thin slices of Iberico pork shoulder seasoned in cayenne and paprika, served with a Jerusalem artichoke purée and tomato relish. The pork shoulder is seasoned perfectly and liberally, with a slight acidity coming from the artichoke purée and the sweet and umami complexity of the slightly-charred tomato relish.
Above Presa, featuring Iberico pork shoulder with Jerusalem artichoke purée and tomato relish, at Bacatá
Above Chipiron (cuttlefish), grilled on one side and served in a salted egg yolk and 'Nduja sauce at Bacatá
Presa, featuring Iberico pork shoulder with Jerusalem artichoke purée and tomato relish, at Bacatá
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Yet, Arévalo is never far from his sense of playfulness or his ability to draw inspiration from everywhere. “Singapore’s influence is huge,” he exclaims, before expounding on his love for salted egg yolk, which he cures in-house for five days and uses in the chipiron (cuttlefish) course. It’s blended with ‘Nduja to make a thick sauce for a grilled cuttlefish with chimichurri. The resulting sauce has a rich texture and a subtle salted egg yolk flavour, which adds a nice body to the fairly light cuttlefish and the refreshing thyme-forward chimichurri. “I like to think of this as a fusion between Latin America and Asia,” Arévalo says. “All the flavours and life experiences here have helped shape who I am today.”
Arévalo looks back on his days at Preludio with pride. “Preludio taught me many lessons and gave me lots of confidence, not only as a chef but also as a business owner,” he says. For five years he held the fort down with no pithy level of courage, citing enduring the pandemic “one of the biggest lessons and most impactful moments of my career”. But with Preludio closed and its decor stripped to make way for Bacatá, Arévalo only has high hopes for the future.
“Representing Colombia and Latin America in Asia is a big responsibility, but I am lucky that I get to work with a team of people who are passionate and ready to show our customers what Latin American culture is all about,” he says. “I want to share the country and culture that I am so proud to represent with as many people as possible. I hope I make them proud—my country and my family.”
About
Ethan is a dining writer with Tatler Singapore. Trained in literary arts and filmmaking, their work has previously been published in Esquire Singapore, Men's Folio, and with the Asian Film Archive and the Singapore International and Film Festival, across a wide range of interests from gastronomy to fashion and arts criticism.
Work
Ethan writes about exciting news in the F&B industry, specialising in fine dining, exclusive spirits launches, and new restaurants. They are always looking for riveting voices to bring something fresh to an already-dynamic industry.
Follow them on Instagram at @faustiangourmand.
