Cover Photo: courtesy of Askal
Photo: courtesy of Askal
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Chef John Rivera introduces Askal, his new restaurant in Melbourne’s CBD bringing Filipino culinary traditions to the fore
From Chicago to Paris and our very own shores, Filipino food is having its moment. Melbourne is no different.
Although Filipino stalls have been a popular fixture at food markets throughout the cultural capital, restaurants like Chibog (West Footscray) and Serai (CBD) have propelled the movement even further. In fact, chef Ross Magnaye’s Serai was even crowned Restaurant of the Year 2022 by Time Out, and recognised with a coveted hat by the Good Food Guide the following year.
Now, there’s a new name on everyone’s lips: Askal. Helmed by culinary and brand director chef John Rivera, the Filipino restaurant in Melbourne’s CBD opened its doors in February of 2024, championing Philippine culinary traditions in contemporary presentations. “We have chosen to follow traditional techniques and flavours as much as we can,” Rivera explains. “We believe Filipino cuisine is so vibrant and diverse; it’s not a broken or ugly thing that we need to change for people to appreciate.”
Related: A Taste of Home with Chef John Rivera of Melbourne's Kariton Sorbetes
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Photo: courtesy of Askal
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Rivera is no stranger to the F&B scene—in fact, Magnaye once cited Rivera’s Filipino gelateria, Kariton Sorbetes as paving the way for Filipino food in Melbourne. Prior to Kariton Sorbetes, Rivera worked his way through top fine dining establishments like Attica, Brae, and Lûmé, and even nabbed the championship title at S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 competition.
While Kariton Sorbetes remains alive and well (with plans to expand to the Philippines in the coming year), Rivera has kept his hands busy with his newest project. Askal is the first project by the Otso-Otso group, which includes head of strategy and operations Michael Mabuti, maitre’d / sommelier Carlos Consunji, executive chef Dhenvirg Ugot, and beverage director Ralph Libo-on.
Learn more about the up-and-coming Filipino restaurant from chef John Rivera, below:
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Photo: courtesy of Askal
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Please tell us a bit about the restaurant, including the culinary philosophies guiding the food and beverage
The cuisine is Filipino. It’s modern, to an extent, but respecting tradition. In terms of food, we aren’t trying to get too progressive. In fact, we have chosen to follow traditional techniques and flavours as much as we can. We believe Filipino cuisine is so vibrant and diverse; it’s not a broken or ugly thing that we need to change for people to appreciate. Instead, we’ll be showcasing true Filipino food so that Australians develop a better appreciation for our cuisine. The beverage will take a similar approach: our cocktails will showcase Filipino and Southeast Asian flavours throughout with nods to nostalgia.
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Photo: courtesy of Askal
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Why call the restaurant “Askal”?
The name of the restaurant “Askal” is inspired by the stray street dogs (“asong kalye”) of the Philippines. When I was thinking of a name that encapsulated and represented all the different regions of the Philippines without being “tacky”. I realised that one aspect that was always present everywhere I went was the stray dog. It’s also the perfect parallel to the resilience of the Filipino diaspora and their ability to adapt to their environment.
Read more: Restaurant industry pet peeves: What not to do when dining in
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Photo: courtesy of Askal
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What are some of the signature items at Askal?
On the food front:
- Pig’s head spam in pandesal, Red Horse mustard, jicama remoulade
- Ocean trout kinilaw, guava aguachile, kamias, heirloom radish, fried taro
- Sizzling pork jowl and abalone sisig, fermented rice, salted chilli
- Leche flan, blackened vanilla, Tanduay rum caramel
From the cocktails:
- Hard Sarsi: Kasama rum, amaro Montenegro, sarsaparilla, cola, white peach, citrus
- Purple Slurple: Dutch Rules wheat vodka, bergamot vermouth, hazelnut, white cacao, ube
- Mang Collino: London dry gin, calamansi soda, coconut sap ferment, habanero
Above Photo: courtesy of Askal
Photo: courtesy of Askal
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Tell us about the unique space you’ve acquired and how you’ve redesigned it for Askal.
The restaurant is housed in a retrofitted late 1800s saloon in Melbourne’s CBD. The aesthetic is industrial elegance with elements of Filipino culture woven through the design. There’s prominent exposed brick from the original building that have been preserved, and exposed ducting and wiring on the high ceilings that are tied together with elegant capiz chandeliers from the Philippines, wooden furniture, and marble bench tops. The fit-out was built by Michael, one of the partners, and the architect who designed it was Stefan Bagnoli, who also designed the Kariton Sorbetes stores.
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About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
