A dining destination: Make your way to Asador Alfonso

As he sat with me for this interview, his excitement was palpable. This seasoned chef was evidently inspired, animated, and fueled by a steadfast obsession and passion for the dining experience, from food to hospitality. He explained the team’s vision to create an F&B experience that would help diners forge lasting memories while allowing the culinary creatives to express who they are, vulnerably and with care. “We are trying to do something that is deep and honest and unique and we are trying to bring a part of Spain, outside of Spain,” says González. 

He shared that there is no other restaurant in Asia with an asador like this, and that part of the goal is to bring an authentic slice of home to the Philippines. “We are the only restaurant in Asia that has this kind of roasting oven. It is something that has been used for generations, for hundreds of years in Spain.” 

With finesse and a healthy dose of elegance, they fruitfully put forth a gastronomic display worth taking note of.

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At Asador Alfonso you will take a deep dive into what Spanish cuisine is all about from the seasoned hands of chefs Chele González and Rodrigo Osario. The menu is produce-driven, focused on the simplicity of excellent ingredients and pays special attention to precise cookery and technique. As an asador, a classic Spanish roasting house, they invite guests to experience traditional and ancestral-style cooking with a contemporary approach from the Castilla region of Spain.

“It’s exciting to have a place where you can bring the best produce from all over the world. We are focused on bringing Span’s high-level products to the Philippines. Once you get the best produce, it is all about how you treat it. Simplicity is more difficult.” 

The menu is evidence of this, with a strong showing of just how powerful purposeful restraint can be. There are no bells and whistles, layers of ingredients, or fussy showmanship. Instead, you will be met with a sophisticated paired-back meal, where attention to detail and flavour steal the show. “It is so difficult to go to that elevated level and at the same time, respect tradition. It looks simple, but it is not,” adds González, who concurs that less is more. 

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Technique and talent are put on full display with executive chef Rodrigo Osario steering the ship day-to-day. Osario’s firm leadership and playful demeanour fosters a solid community within the kitchen, bonding their team of chefs together. During our visit their dynamic was clean; the chefs understood one another and worked in unison as a collaborative unit. Eagerly and enthusiastically, they skilfully presented a menu to be proud of. 

“This project connects me to home. Gallery is my lab, where we push the boundaries of fine dining and experiment. Asador Alfonso is me going back to my roots. Since it is very Spanish, I can bring my culture and my heritage. To find this calibre of restaurant outside of Spain is very hard,” he conveys.  

No tasting menus will be offered; instead, diners can select from curated set menus. The meal begins with tasty teases, introducing appetisers that impress from start to finish. Each bite emphasises the power of simplicity and the importance of a chef's ability to edit. From the Boquerónes, sardines marinated in vinegar sitting atop house-made bread, to Esparrago, plump seasonal white asparagus and celeriac purée with shaved summer truffles, or Matrimonio, a dish of charcoal roasted red peppers, sardines and Spanish anchovies, bite after bite unfolds powerful subtle nuances and a delicate balance of flavours. 

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Asador Alfonso’s signature homemade cured A5 Japanese Wagyu jamon melts in your mouth and pairs perfectly with their pipping hot slices of bread which come fresh out of the oven. Their juicy tomato salad features Spanish tomatoes that are grown here in the Philippines, served with confit tuna, onions and Arbequina olive oil. The Alcachofa plate spotlights confit artichokes, a deeply developed buttery roasted garlic sauce and textures of almond– a creation that certainly keeps you coming back for more. 

A strikingly coral red Carabinero met us at the table. These massive flat-grilled Spanish red prawns are prepared as a dish meant to be eaten by hand, inviting diners to get familiar with their meal. Up next is Setas, a stunning preparation of sautéed mushrooms, infused with the salt of a cured papada, luscious truffle yolk emulsion, vegetable juice and teardrop peas.

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The main features, the asador’s unbelievably succulent roasts of pork and lamb, are masterpieces both in terms of technique and depth of flavour. The hero item is the Lechazo, a roasted baby lamb that is served with a salad and potatoes soaked in jus. Every morsel of tender meat simply slides off the bone and is subdued in a flavourful seductive bath of its own drippings. A perfectly crispy, golden brown cochinillo is another star feature that comes fresh out of the asador. Here, the team cuts the pig tableside with a plate just like they do in Spain. The audible crackling of its crunchy skin readies diners for the tender yet texture-filled mouthful that is about to be had. The asador also cooks up dreamy grilled rib eye, or for those who prefer seafood, black cod and sole.

The menu concludes with the must-not-miss Flan de Teresa, a hypnotically silky, light, yet decadent vanilla flan inspired by González’s grandmother’s recipe which has since been re-developed by Osorio. 

“The drive is to create a shared experience. Some plates are designed for sharing and while others are individual. We want to offer something that is at the end of the day, is very comforting, so guests will feel like they are in a family setting somehow,” González conveys. Here the meal is about not only the exquisite food, but also the company and moments forged around the dining table. 

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To make the magic happen, González underscores the significance of a stellar team. “The team, the people we work with and who run the restaurant are so important. This is vital to create an atmosphere and level of service that is really fine and to be able to bring the essence of Spain to the table. The team is a large part of the ecosystem in F&B.” 

Chef Osario used to work at Gallery by Chele for three years before returning home to Spain where he led restaurants and opened his own business. Today he steers the ship at Asador Alfonso with his wife Irene Fernandez in charge of the front of house and their wine program. “He knows my standards so he will not be surprised. The timing was right, so when I asked if he wanted to join us for this amazing project, he accepted,”  González shared. The kitchen staff comprises budding talents from Cavite who were then trained and groomed at Asador Alfonso.

“We have an amazing team on board, from Carlo to Rodrigo and Irene. With the right partners, you do not need to force anything. We all believe that this is magical and have a very clear vision, an understanding of what we want to do, something that breaks the rules. I am so lucky to have Carlo as a partner here,” he adds. 

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At The Lava Rock, the Calma family’s personal development, you’ll find not only Asador Alfonso but a farm where they grow fresh produce and raise animals which works perfectly with González staunch dedication to sustainable practices. Soon the property will also showcase a range of art exhibitions too. The architecture, interior design, and landscaping truly transport guests and make the destination restaurant adventure ultra unique. 

When making the trip here I encourage you to laze around, indulge, and find respite and allow yourself to be wooed by every element of Asador Alfonso. The dining experience extends far beyond the meal, as the property exposes itself to you layer by layer, you slowly settle in and imbibe the ambience, hopefully with a glass of wine in tow. What makes a 'best restaurant' after all is when there is harmony between food, hospitality and ambience. To refine and perfect this trifecta, González in fact often dines in as a guest so that he can gain that perspective and make the necessary meaningful adjustments not only to food and service but also the vibe, that je ne sais quoi energy that separates you from the rest. “We all need a break from the big city,” González states, excitedly adding that he too is building a home on the grounds.

Asador Alfonso has been a project years in the making. With heaps of love, smart, decisive decision-making, and finessed craftsmanship, the team is finally ready to share their creation with the world. “Time is important. If you want to do something outstanding, do not rush. If you are in a hurry, it is not gonna happen,” González imparts. 

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