The Aristocrat on Dewey Boulevard (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat group of companies)
Cover The Aristocrat on Dewey Boulevard (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat group of companies)
The Aristocrat on Dewey Boulevard (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat group of companies)

We speak to the family behind the iconic Aristocrat to learn more about their delicious story

The Philippines, characterised by its familial ties and a strong sense of community, is home to several family-led brands and establishments–some have even become cornerstones of the nation’s economic and cultural landscapes. With many coming from humble beginnings and others from accidental (or providential) success, these companies have grown, with each generation adding its touch to preserving tradition while ushering in innovation. Here we take a deep dive into the story behind time-tested The Aristocrat Restaurant which has stood strong since 1936. 

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Tatler Asia
Asiang Cruz-Reyes and Alex Reyes (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat group of companies)
Above Asiang Cruz-Reyes and Alex Reyes (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat group of companies)
Asiang Cruz-Reyes and Alex Reyes (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat group of companies)

From the very beginning, The Aristocrat Restaurant was always about family. After all, founders Justice Alex Reyes and his wife Engracia “Asiang” Cruz-Reyes were devoted parents to their 12 children, even through the hectic years of the rise of their historic restaurant. Family time was sacred to the Reyes clan—and family mealtimes, even more so.

“Our grandparents were from Malabon,” explains Raymund A Reyes, chairman and president of The Aristocrat Group of Companies. “Our great-grandmother started cooking there. Our roots are as Filipino as can be.” Despite the growing popularity of American food and culture in the Thirties, Asiang’s love for Philippine cuisine never wavered. The Reyes couple soon saw an opportunity to transform their home, which was large enough to accommodate their family of 14 and countless house parties and open a canteen on the ground level. “My grandmother was just a housewife who happened to love cooking for her family and, eventually, for friends and customers alike,” Raymund shares. Known as Lapu-Lapu, the canteen proudly served homestyle Filipino delights, with each of the 12 children carrying their weight in day-to-day operations. Not long after, their home became a famous watering hole for the students of the nearby St. Theresa’s College.

Tatler Asia
The Aristocrat branch in SM Southmall (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat Group of Companies)
Above The Aristocrat branch in SM Southmall (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat Group of Companies)
The Aristocrat branch in SM Southmall (Photo: Courtesy of the Aristocrat Group of Companies)

Inspired by their first food venture’s success, Lola Asiang opened a food truck at Luneta—where the Reyes family would also hold their weekly picnics. Clever and innovative, the matriarch conceptualised easy-to-eat meals infused with her passion for Filipino flavours, like sandwiches stuffed with chicken adobo or fried fish. The truck later moved to Dewey Boulevard (now known as Roxas Boulevard), and in July 1936, Alex and Asiang opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant on that very spot. This humble eatery would become the very first branch of The Aristocrat Restaurant, now a historic landmark recognised by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines, and one of 17 branches operating today.

Be it with their fan-favourite lumpiang Shanghai, signature chicken barbecue with Java rice, Java sauce and atchara, or even some treats from The Aristocrat Bakeshop, the long-loved brand has earned the trust of Filipinos across the country and maintained its reputation for over eight decades—a milestone few establishments get to accomplish. Unsurprisingly, Raymund explains that this success all goes back to family, declaring it “the core to any establishment for longevity, in this generation and generations to come”. “We are run by third- and fourth-generation Reyes family,” he continues. “There are only a few third-generation establishments in the Philippines. The challenge is to get at least one of your sons, daughters or apos to love the business. The restaurant business is one of the toughest [industries] I that you have to devote your time and efforts to long hours, especially when you have 24/7 operations.”

See also: Restaurants with the best private dining rooms from the Tatler Dining Guide 2024

Heritage plays a vital role in The Aristocrat‘s enduring success—but Lola Asiang’s knack for innovation is also a core tenet of the brand. The Aristocrat’s dedication to quality ingredients persists to this day, tweaking heirloom recipes as needed through constant taste tests and R&D. The power of comforting, homestyle cooking continues to be at the forefront of their brand. At the same time, Raymund draws from his extensive business studies to ensure The Aristocrat stays relevant in the fast-changing F&B landscape. The Aristocrat has brought their Thirties charm to the modern era by leveraging tools like social media and delivery aggregators. “The company has grown conservatively, not aggressively, through its 88 years of existence, but it has kept its traditions intact, culturally and business-wise,” Raymund reflects.

Looking forward, Raymund seeks to expand The Aristocrat Group of Companies to more cities across the country and destinations overseas. “The Filipino consumer has become more sophisticated in that Filipinos are well-travelled and OFWs are exposed to various international cuisines,” he observes. “More people are eating out, whether it be street food, fast food, or casual dining, and Filipinos have become more adventurous in their dining choices… however, comfort food and home-cooked meals are still much sought after.” Through The Aristocrat, Asiang‘s devotion to family, Filipino food and hospitality lives on, offering a beacon of simple yet timeless values where everyone feels at home.

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Topics

Lauren Golangco
Tatler Dining associate editor, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia
Photo: Ralph Mendo

About

Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.

Work

As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.

For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.

Photo: Ralph Mendo