Cover Asya Tan, Jun Wong, and Miki Lie (Photo: Universal Bakehouse, Yellow Fin Horse, Gooddam)
Asya Tan, Jun Wong, and Miki Lie (Photo: Universal Bakehouse, Yellow Fin Horse, Gooddam)
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The professional kitchen is historically a male-dominated space, but these female chefs and restaurateurs are changing this norm
When you think of a chef, what image comes to mind? If it is a male figure in a white uniform, you make up the majority of the population. And for good reason—walk into any restaurant, bar, or kitchen space and more often than not, it will be dominated by men. In the hospitality industry, women hold less than 20 per cent of executive chef roles, and when it comes to the world’s top restaurants, less than seven per cent of head chefs are women.
With intense physical demands, long and high pressure hours, and a lack of family-friendly policies, leadership positions in kitchens have often been filled by men, even though in a home setting, women often take on the dominant domestic roles of labouring over meals for their families.
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Above Asya Tan (Photo: Basic Wine Store)
Asya Tan (Photo: Basic Wine Store)
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“In many Asian cultures, there is still the expectation for women to take on more responsibilities at home, which makes it even harder to stay in the industry,” says Asya Tan, the managing partner of Table & Apron, Universal Bakehouse, and Basic Wine Store. “In the past, the female cook was often confined to home kitchens, while the professional arena became dominated by men,” adds Jun Wong, head chef at Yellow Fin Horse at Else Hotel. “And just like how many things are today, this became the norm, and is seen as something that just is.”
Above Jun Wong (Photo: Yellow Fin Horse)
Jun Wong (Photo: Yellow Fin Horse)
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This begins even before joining the workforce: “Many female culinary graduates have great talent and strong organisational skills, but when it comes to leadership, hesitate to step up,” says Miki Lie, the co-founder of Gooddam. “This reluctance often comes from self doubt or a lack of confidence.”
Despite the industry’s challenges, many incredible talents, such as Tan and Wong, have made a name for themselves, leading top restaurants in Malaysia and commanding operations. However, their achievements did not come without challenges. “When I first started out as a junior, I set tough expectations for myself in order to prove I was just as fast, strong, and sharp as [my male counterparts], if not more,” says Wong. “I self-imposed strict discipline to not show emotion of weakness.”
Above Miki Lie (Photo: Gooddam)
Miki Lie (Photo: Gooddam)
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However since she first entered the industry, she feels things have changed for the better, with both genders having better, and more equal opportunities. “Expectations are slowly changing, and with more inclusive policies, the industry can create an environment where everyone has the same opportunities to grow,” comments Tan, who began as an intern at Table & Apron before working her way up the ranks. “In my opinion, gender is not an issue as long as the team and people that surround you are supportive,” adds Lie.
Above Asya Tan making sourdough (Photo: Universal Bakehouse)
Asya Tan making sourdough (Photo: Universal Bakehouse)
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Wong hopes that well-deserved value is placed through proportionate pay, recognition, and distribution of workload: “This support comes not just from restaurant owners and those working in the industry, but also patrons acknowledging the ecosystem of the industry’s demands.”
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Above Yellow Fin Horse (Photo: Yellow Fin Horse)
Yellow Fin Horse (Photo: Yellow Fin Horse)
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Through mentorship programmes and flexibility in career paths, Tan believes a work-life balance can be achieved. “When the industry makes room for different ways of working, this benefits everyone,” she firmly says. “Diversity can also shift perspectives, showing there is no one right way to succeed, and I hope to see more women represented in kitchens, as chefs, leaders, and business owners.”
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
