Table & Apron, a beacon of hospitality in the Malaysian dining scene, celebrates its 10th anniversary

The restaurant’s name, originating from the supper club, was The Kitchen Table, but the team received a trademark infringement two years after operations began. Low reveals they actually considered closing due to a lack of direction at the time, but they also attribute the most growth to this difficult period. “We had to ask ourselves what customer experience we wanted to provide and what it really meant to be a restaurant,” he says. 

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While the food served has not changed much, what has progressed is the customer journey. “We realised the amount of effort we put into nurturing the team and building confidence reflects a better and more personalised guest experience,” Low explains. “It is all about creating a strong kitchen culture from rituals like staff meals or training and discovery sessions to build an innate sense of purpose.” The restaurant owner shares that staff have friendly competitions to remember customer names, or when they last visited, trying to build a lasting relationship. 

Fostering such a healthy environment allows cultivation of talent, and Low gives me the example of Asya Tan, current managing partner and director of operations, who began as an intern. “It is amazing to watch the team grow within the organisation and imprint their identity,” he says. “We are a restaurant that cooks Asian and Western dishes, with nasi lemak on Malaysia Day and roasts during Christmas—to be able to do so many things is a privilege.”

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In October 2019, Universal Bakehouse, the collective’s second concept located just next to Table & Apron, opened its doors. “Before we open new concepts, we ask ourselves three things—is the new restaurant more exciting than what we currently have, does the location call for it, and does it make the team better and give them more opportunities?” he shares.

Originally housing a launderette, the owner of Universal Laundry (where the bakery also draws its name and logo from) retired, and the lot became available. “The bread we were baking at Table & Apron was taking up a lot of fridge space, and the team felt we needed a new facility,” Low says. “Prior, there was also a baker’s college in Damansara Kim that had shut after 30 years, and we wanted to carry on the legacy.”

The third concept, Basic Wine Store, was inspired by Low’s trip to the UK, where he noticed restaurants offering less conventional wines. Furthermore, it allowed a portion of the team to relocate and take on roles such as expediting service, managing food costs, designing menus, and handling portion control. “They learn new aspects about running a restaurant that they would not otherwise have known,” Low says.

Speaking about education, Low also teaches restaurant management at the Malaysian Institute of Baking and is part of the external advisory team at the Sunway University School of Hospitality and Service Management. “We try to engage on a high level regarding what needs to go back to hospitality students,” he says.

Touching on the future, the restaurant owner hopes to continue what Table & Apron does best—giving back to the community. Last year, they hosted a fundraiser for underprivileged children, and funds will be raised this year for the Dignity for Children Foundation by bringing back menu specials from the past. The restaurant will also be producing a zine to share its story with loyal customers and inspire those who want to open restaurants.

“Not a lot of places can be around for 10 years and still remain relevant,” he ends. “Restaurants are not just a place to dine, but a way to pool communities together, raising the tide for Malaysia’s dining scene.”

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