Cover An exclusive first look at Maggie’s, an irreverent ’70s-inspired Chinese bistro replacing Hevel
An exclusive first look at Maggie’s, an irreverent ’70s-inspired Chinese bistro replacing Hevel
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Tatler Dining gets an exclusive first look at Maggie’s before it opens its doors on March 1
The passing of Stefan Liau last year sent shockwaves through Singapore’s culinary scene. The talented young chef-owner of contemporary European restaurant Hevel was known for his impressive culinary resume, having worked in Michelin-starred establishments, and even alongside acclaimed chefs like Yoshihiro Narisawa (Narisawa), Gaggan Anand (Gaggan), and Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accent). Along with the closure of Hevel on January 25, Liau left a void that many thought could never be filled.
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Above From left: Goh Tong Hann, restauranteur and founder of Pleasurecraft Group, and the late Stefan Liau of Hevel
From left: Goh Tong Hann, restauranteur and founder of Pleasurecraft Group, and the late Stefan Liau of Hevel
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“Closing Hevel wasn’t a decision we took lightly,” says Goh Tong Hann, restauranteur and founder of Pleasurecraft Group—and close friend to Liau. “But carrying it on without him didn’t feel right. He was irreplaceable.” Instead of trying to replicate Hevel, Goh decided to create something entirely new, a restaurant idea he had been sitting on while honouring Liau in the only way he knows how. From the ashes of grief and loss, a new flame has ignited for the brainchild behind Marcy’s, Parliament and Hevel.
Together with Ryan Nile Choo, chef-partner of Marcy’s Singapore, Maggie’s, a playful and irreverent “almost Chinese” bistro, comes to fruition. “It’s Marcy’s baby sister, we jokingly say same mother, different father,” quips Goh, citing the rising potential of regional Chinese cuisine in Singapore. “The closure of Hevel certainly sped things up, but the idea (Maggie’s) had already been taking shape in the background.” Set to open its doors on March 1, Maggie’s is a testament to the enduring spirit of creativity and the power of friendship.
Above Ryan Nile Choo is the chef-partner of Marcy’s Singapore
Ryan Nile Choo is the chef-partner of Marcy’s Singapore
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Drawing inspiration from diverse spice trade routes and ingredients found along China’s Silk Road, and the uniquely piquant palette of the Hunan region, Choo promises flavour combinations that are familiar yet unexpected. Think Cacio e Pepe, made using springy noodles and flavoured with furu (fermented beancurd) and Sichuan peppercorns; lamb tartare with textures of creamy century egg, green Hunan chilis, and crispy fried sunchoke; and the popular firecracker chicken, except made with crispy octopus tentacles and whole river prawns. Even the classic Sichuan saliva chicken is reinterpreted with luscious shirako (cod milt) instead of the regular silkened chicken.
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Above Cosy horseshoe booths invite intimate conversations
Above Vintage medicine cabinets add a touch of retro whimsy
Cosy horseshoe booths invite intimate conversations
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On the booze front, cocktails are equally inventive, featuring mischievous concoctions like Sichuan peppercorn-infused margarita, and a tea-inspired red date winter melon rum-based tipple. The interiors of the 60-seater restaurant are a feast for the senses too; a playful blend of grandma chic and ’70s glamour. Glittering chandeliers, gold chinoiserie accents, and sleek stainless steel shelving contrast playfully with red travertine tables. Horseshoe booths invite intimate conversations, and vintage medicine cabinets add a touch of retro whimsy. The walls, adorned with prints from cult local designer New World Plaza, are a cheeky reminder to live for pleasure.
Above Maggie’s is a playful blend of grandma chic and ’70s glamour (Photo: Pleasurecraft Group)
Maggie’s is a playful blend of grandma chic and ’70s glamour (Photo: Pleasurecraft Group)
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Quite possibly the least authentic Chinese restaurant there is in Singapore, Goh wears it as a badge of honour, embracing some sort of whimsical absurdity. “Maggie’s, to me, means renewal,” expounds Goh in remembrance of Liau. “If there’s one thing this experience has shown me, it’s that moments like these have a way of pulling people together. No one would have expected Stefan’s passing; we had to move quickly, but our team was ready.”
Maggie’s is more than just a new restaurant opening but a representation of resilience and rebellion. “More than anything, I hope it brings people together—the way it already has,” reflects Goh. “I want it to be a place where people feel something, where they can lose themselves for a little while in good food, good company, and that quiet thrill of discovering something just a little bit unexpected.” When the doors open on March 1, Maggie’s is a must-visit for anyone seeking the unconventional.
Maggie’s
Address: 1 Keong Saik Road, #01-04, S(089109)
Credits
Images: Pleasurecraft Group
