Cover If Only is located along Taman U Thant (Photo: If Only)
If Only is located along Taman U Thant (Photo: If Only)
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We speak to If Only’s founders, Keith Wong and Ng Hui Jean, as well as executive chef Bryan Tan
For those planning to visit If Only on the weekends, don’t be surprised to see a line of people snaking out of the airy resort-like house. Located along Jalan U That, the establishment is beautifully decked out in greenery and features a pet-friendly outdoor courtyard. Despite its popularity, few know its original conceptualisation, though very different in terms of design, was actually six years ago in 2018.
Owner Keith Wong grew up in the central neighbourhood before going to Melbourne for university, eventually moving back to Kuala Lumpur in 2017. Returning back, he realised there was a lack of restaurants and cafés in the vicinity. “We would always say if only we could go somewhere that offered both kopitiam foods as well as good coffee,” laughs Wong’s partner (in both business and life), Ng Hui Jean, explaining If Only’s namesake.
They decided to open the eatery in September 2019, taking up a small portion of the land owned by Wong’s family but eventually decided they wanted to renovate the space and revamp the menu.
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Bryan Tan, the restaurant’s executive chef, and Ng were primary school friends and college mates, and the two even went to university in Melbourne together. Tan cut his chops at restaurants around Kuala Lumpur, including his own initiative, one of Ng’s previous restaurants, and was part of the opening team of Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar and Rare the Food Co.
“We caught up with [Tan] and realised he was the perfect fit, as his strengths were in wholesome and high-quality food,” Ng says. “If Only was shut for renovations during Chinese New Year in 2023, and it reopened with a completely new interior and menu.”
Above Executive chef Bryan Tan
Above The kitchen at If Only dishes out elevated Japanese-European plates
Executive chef Bryan Tan
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Before Regal House (the compound that holds If Only) was renovated, it was a marble showroom, part of Wong’s family business.
“There was a lot of sentimental material leftover from operations, and the idea was to recycle as much as we could,” Ng says. “The space, which incorporates a lot of marble, was inspired by the idea of dining comfortably in someone’s home.”
Impressive pillars that frame the restaurant, as well as table tops, are made with pieces of reused marble samples, adding a subtle touch of luxury. “Being in the city centre, traffic is often bad, so we wanted to evoke the sense of a relaxing holiday,” Ng adds.
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When it comes to the food, there is something for everyone. “When we first designed the menu, we asked each other what our comfort food was—for me, oden and noodles; for [Tan], dishes that were more simple and clean, and for [Wong], greasier breakfast offerings,” Ng chuckles. The resulting menu runs the gamut, from rice and noodle bowls to chilli scrambled eggs, avocado toast, and sandwiches.
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What sets the brunch menu apart from other similar eateries is attention to detail and quality produce. “We want to focus on good cooking techniques,” Tan explains. “Even when it comes to the simplest plate of scrambled eggs, it is always done at the highest level, and when these basics are done right, food always tastes great.”
This also rings true when it comes to ingredients. “[Wong] has a farm and orchard, and we take tilapia from the farm, age it in our in-house dry-ager, and serve it over rice for lunch,” he continues.
If Only has recently launched its new dinner menu, featuring elevated Japanese-European offerings. “The dinner menu is ideal for sharing between groups, so everyone gets to try a little bit of everything in a very interactive experience,” Tan says.
With the impressive space and an intimate private room, private dinners are requested often, which Tan curates according to each group. “Instead of having a fixed set menu, we ask for customer preference and tailor the menu according to budget and tastes,” he smiles.
Other than the dine-in menu, If Only is also home to Universal Bakehouse’s second outlet, which boasts pastries and fresh bread daily. “Baking was not our expertise, and we wanted to bring in a partner to provide baked goods,” Ng says.
External partnerships within the compound can also be seen in the form of a beauty lounge called Lyla and Defy, a strength-forward gym catered to fitness enthusiasts.
“We look for the right businesses and people that cater towards the community,” Wong explains. “Good individuals so that people that live nearby and frequent If Only will be able to go back to them too.”
In-house events also happen often, with brands taking over certain spaces within If Only. The latest initiative with Bungkus, a brand known for its sustainable bags and accessories, was especially aligned with the restaurant. “Few know this, but we use a compost machine to turn waste, such as fruit and vegetable peel, egg shells, and coffee grounds, into fertiliser,” Tan adds.
Touching on the future, Wong hopes to make Regal House a one-stop community area. “If you live here long enough, you know where Hock Choon is, and people constantly return,” Wong says, referring to the long-standing neighbourhood grocer. “It offers comfort to the community, and I want to be able to do so too.”
Ng ends: “Even though the new If Only is less than a year old, we want to grow and innovate to offer people something progressive and different, whether in terms of workshops, events, or dining experiences.”
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Credits
Images: If Only
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
