Cover Hiep Truong takes a bold step forward in his career as co-founder and head chef at Upstairs Tasting Room.
Hiep Truong takes a bold step forward in his career as co-founder and head chef at Upstairs Tasting Room.
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Over the past 11 years, Hiep Truong has journeyed from a soft-spoken young man in Hue to a seasoned, resilient chef, gaining valuable experience in some of the most respected kitchens.
Hiep Truong’s path has taken him through an impressive line-up of restaurants known to Ho Chi Minh City’s discerning diners. These include Quince Saigon (Tatler Best 2024), Little Bear Wine Bar (as co-chef), Villa Song, MAD House, Noir. Dining in the Dark, and The Jetty Sai Gon, where he served as head chef.
As 2024 draws to a close, Hiep takes a bold step forward in his career. He now assumes the role of co-founder and head chef at Upstairs Tasting Room, a modern Vietnamese restaurant promising a refined yet genuine experience. In conversation with Tatler Vietnam, he shares his vision and the spirit he brings to this exciting new chapter.
This is not your first time leading a kitchen. What makes this new role at Upstairs Tasting Room stand out?
In previous roles, I always worked alongside someone—either a co-chef or an executive chef. This time, I’m stepping into the role on my own. It’s a significant pressure, not only overseeing the kitchen but also managing everything from operations and staffing to finances. There’s a mix of joy and anxiety... but I feel fortunate to have strong support from those around me. The coordination has been seamless, and I’m grateful.
How did you prepare for this next step?
Together with the team, I’ve worked hard to bring Upstairs Tasting Room to life. Still, no amount of preparation ever feels quite enough. Challenges will inevitably arise, and we’ll need to keep learning, adapting, and finding solutions along the way.
What kind of leadership philosophy do you intend to bring into the kitchen?
When I co-led Little Bear with Nhat Duy, I was struck by his open, hands-on approach. Despite being the founder and top executive, he was in the kitchen daily—developing recipes, cooking, even helping with the cleanup. That inclusive spirit is what I hope to foster at Upstairs. I want us to feel like a family, working side by side without hierarchy.
The greatest challenge lies in steering the ship alone.
Reflecting on your journey so far, how has the profession shaped you?
The most profound shift has been in how I view the role itself. In the beginning, I thought being a chef simply meant cooking. Over time, I’ve realised it’s about far more—developing dishes, managing costs, handling teams, and keeping the restaurant running smoothly. These are insights I want to pass on to younger chefs, so they approach the profession with confidence and a deeper sense of purpose.
What has the culinary life required you to sacrifice?
Our days are long, with shifts that easily stretch 10 to 12 hours. We rarely eat on time, and late nights are often spent experimenting with new ideas. While others enjoy weekends and holidays, those are our busiest times. But I’ve learned to cope with these challenges—largely thanks to the unwavering support of my family from the very beginning.
If you had to use one flavour to describe the journey of Hiep Truong, what would it be?
It’s not easy to name, but I’d say it’s the taste of sharing and guiding. I’ve been lucky to meet many remarkable people—experienced, yet generous with their time and knowledge. Among them, Chef Julien Perraudin of Quince has been both mentor and culinary godfather. He introduced me to new and exciting approaches to cooking. Then there’s restaurateur Long Tran, a true older brother figure. As general manager, he offered me fresh perspectives on running a restaurant and played a key part in the creation of Upstairs. I also have to mention Nhat Duy, my co-chef at Little Bear, whose creativity and joy in the kitchen have been a constant source of inspiration.
Above Hiep Truong: My focus is Vietnamese cuisine, as I grew up surrounded by the deep, vibrant dishes of Central Vietnam.
Hiep Truong: My focus is Vietnamese cuisine, as I grew up surrounded by the deep, vibrant dishes of Central Vietnam.
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Hiep Truong, what is the current style of Upstairs Tasting Room?
Upstairs is all about presenting familiar flavours in unexpected ways. My focus is Vietnamese cuisine, as I grew up surrounded by the deep, vibrant dishes of Central Vietnam—mussels with rice paper, duck, Quang noodles... These flavours stayed with me. Now, I want to share them more widely, using modern cooking techniques and a thoughtful understanding of their origins.
What dishes do you feel best capture the spirit of Upstairs? Are there ingredients or techniques that make them stand out?
I’d highlight the Grilled Scallops with Scallion Oil—simple, comforting seafood made with scallops, cockles and a scallion oil foam. Or the Beef and Aubergine Salad, one of the first starters on our tasting menu, with Wagyu beef marinated in fish sauce, shredded aubergine beneath, and herbs from Hue to finish. I’m also very fond of pickled beetroot. It’s a dish that’s followed me across several kitchens—each time evolving—and it became the inspiration behind Upstairs’ Oyster Ice Cream.
To create modern Vietnamese cuisine while honouring its roots, what do you believe is the most essential element?
Flavour. At Upstairs, we use a lot of fish sauce and mam—they’re cornerstones of Vietnamese cooking. The idea is to preserve the essence of a dish, even if its presentation is different. For instance, we serve Quang noodles cold, but the taste is instantly recognisable, thanks to ingredients like shallots, turmeric, vinegar and green mustard.
Discipline and consistency are the two core principles I strive to uphold.
What is the wonderful kind of challenge that keeps Chef Hiep Truong rushing back into the kitchen each day?
It’s difficult to point to just one, because there’s always something new to tackle. But right now, I’d say discipline and consistency are the two that push me most. Discipline was instilled in me by my father, who was a strict man, never one to indulge his children. And consistency is what I strive for in my food—a dish should be just as good the tenth time as it was the first.
As head chef at Upstairs Tasting Room, where do you hope to steer this ship? Is there a particular award or form of recognition in sight?
For now, my goal is to offer the best possible experience—through the food, the wine, the setting and the service. I want to take this ship as far as it will go. As for awards or accolades, I prefer to keep those hopes to myself.
Above Hiep Truong: As for awards or accolades, I prefer to keep those hopes to myself.
Hiep Truong: As for awards or accolades, I prefer to keep those hopes to myself.
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In your opinion, where does contemporary Vietnamese cuisine stand on the world culinary map? What elements do we have that other cuisines do not—and may need to learn from?
From what I observe, many are now working to introduce Vietnamese cuisine to the world in fresh and contemporary ways. There’s still so much potential waiting to be explored. One of our greatest strengths lies in our access to exceptional ingredients—abundant seafood, vibrant herbs, and a distinctive spice palette, with fish sauce standing out as a defining element.
Thanks for this fascinating insight!
This article is part of the series [Cover Story: Thuc vi tri tam], adapted from the original piece published in Tatler Vietnam, February 2025 issue.
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