Cover Fumée in Shenzhen is helmed by Reina Chen (Photo: Instagram / @fumeerestaurant)
Fumée in Shenzhen is helmed by Reina Chen (Photo: Instagram / @fumeerestaurant)
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We take a look inside modern Chinese restaurant Fumée, which uses ingredients and techniques from all over China
Fumée, named after the French word for smoke, reflects Chen’s deep appreciation for Chinese culinary heritage. The restaurant is grounded in the belief that Chinese cuisine is borderless—rather than being constrained to a single region, it takes into account the diaspora of the community.
Co-founded by David Pan and head chef Reina Chen, the team boldly fuses different culinary cultures, applying innovative techniques to create unique recipes. Here, Chen draws from the vast and diverse ingredients and techniques of China’s many provinces.
Read more: Inside Saigon: A gourmand’s guide to Ho Chi Minh City’s dining and drinks scene
Her love for food began during her childhood, and that early passion eventually led her to a bold career shift on the brink of turning 30. “I began my career as a Chinese opera performer, but have always loved cooking—I decided at 29 that it would be my last chance to take the leap to become a chef,” the well-natured Chen smiles.
For instance, one of her standout creations is the Tofu Trio, inspired by her time in Shenzhen and her discovery of Chaoshan ingredients. The dish features three distinct layers: tofu coated in Puning tofu batter, a scallop mousse that mimics the texture of tofu, and a final layer made with fermented tofu.
Another personal favourite features sturgeon tendon, gently poached and served atop silky steamed egg alongside baby peas that gently burst in the mouth. The dish is finished with a drizzle of homemade Shaoxing wine lees, crafted from the remnants of Shaoxing wine which are steeped in the wine itself before undergoing an ice-drip technique to replicate a traditional Chinese method.
“Chinese cooking techniques are incredible,” Chen concludes. “Having trained in both Western and Chinese cuisine, I’m constantly impressed by the precision and technicality of Chinese methods—I still learn something new every single day.”
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
