Cover Toro nigiri from Sushi Kanesaka
Toro nigiri from Sushi Kanesaka
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We talk to four Japanese chefs and restauranteurs in Hong Kong about safety concerns, public perception, and the resulting culinary choices in the wake of Japan's environmental decision
In Hong Kong, where world cuisines compete fiercely for diners’ attention, Japanese fare often steals the limelight, especially with its fresh seafood. Be it the fattiest cuts of tuna or the lushest boxes of sea urchin—Hong Kong is a devoted consumer. In fact, the Japanese government reports that in 2022, Hong Kong's seafood purchases from Japan amounted to 75.5 billion yen (exceeding HK$4 billion). This positions Hong Kong as Japan's second-largest fishery export market, trailing only mainland China.
However, the city’s recent import ban on Japanese seafood from prefectures including Tokyo, Fukushima, Chiba, Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Miyagi, Niigata, Nagano, and Saitama, triggered by fears of radioactive contamination due to the release of wastewater into the Pacific Ocean from Japan’s damaged Fukushima power plant, has sent tremors across the city.
Above Fish market in Tokyo (Photo: AXP Photography/Unsplash)
Fish market in Tokyo (Photo: AXP Photography/Unsplash)
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What happened?
In 2011, a devastating earthquake and tsunami wrecked the Fukushima power plant, causing reactor cores to overheat and contaminating the facility's water. Since then, the power plant operator, Tepco, has been cooling the fuel rods by pumping water, amassing more than 500 Olympic swimming pools' worth of contaminated water in storage tanks. This water, which is treated and diluted, contains a lingering concern: the radioactive element of hydrogen—tritium, which cannot be entirely removed due to technological limitations.
Fast forward to today, 12 years later, Japan has begun releasing this treated radioactive water into the Pacific Ocean, sparking widespread concerns that have led countries such as China to ban all Japanese seafood. The process, endorsed by the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA), is expected to stretch over three decades, with the first release spanning until March 2024. Based on an “independent, on-site analysis”, the IAEA states that tritium levels from the wastewater are “far below the operational limit of 1,500 becquerels per litre (Bq/L)”—a threshold significantly lower than the World Health Organisation's limit for drinking water.
A poster (in Chinese) sent to Japanese ingredient suppliers from the Consulate-General of Japan in Hong Kong states, “Even if you eat ten pieces of sashimi from Fukushima every day for thirty years, the exposure to radiation will not be as much as one-tenth of a dental x-ray.”
Above A poster sent to Japanese ingredient suppliers from the Consulate-General of Japan in Hong Kong
A poster sent to Japanese ingredient suppliers from the Consulate-General of Japan in Hong Kong
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But while many experts vouch for the safety of this release, deeming the radiation levels too low to pose a genuine threat, apprehensions about its long-term impact remain with environmental groups, including Greenpeace, which highlights potential risks like “damage to cell structures, including DNA” that tritium can pose when ingested by animals and plants.
How will Hong Kong's restaurants cope?
In the midst of the discourse surrounding the safety of the water and the implications of the unfolding situation, we asked four Japanese chefs and restaurateurs to delve into the impact on their establishments, their strategies for navigating the challenges, and the role Hong Kong diners might play in all of this.
Anthony Ng of Nikushou and Uza by Nikushou in Hong Kong shares his views. “With all this information based on scientific assessments, some media platforms have not been able to explain the situation so clearly, leading to some misunderstandings from a mass audience.” Ng emphasises the effect on Hong Kong's culinary scene, “Restaurants predominantly serving fish or sushi will absolutely be affected. Many, like ours, are opting for seafood from uncontaminated areas like Kyushu and Hokkaido.” Stressing the need for informed decision-making, he adds, “Hong Kong diners need to understand what’s really happening. It might not be as dire as portrayed.” Ng hopes for a surge in discerning consumers who are willing to delve deeper, research the facts, and support eateries grappling with this predicament. “After the pandemic, many restaurants are still struggling to stay afloat. This situation compounds their challenges, making customer support even more crucial.”
Yoshiyuki Sato, the executive chef at Kaen Teppanyaki, weighs in, “We have made necessary adjustments to our menu to ensure the highest quality and safety of our dishes.” While Wagyu beef remains their signature offering, the challenges posed by the seafood import ban haven’t gone unnoticed. “Our seafood now solely originates from Hokkaido, Kansai, and Kyushu regions," says Sato, emphasising the distance from the contentious Fukushima region. The horizon may be broader still, with Sato willing to explore European seafood, pending the sentiments of their diners. Concerned that the ban may have already tarnished the reputation of Japanese ingredients with the rising price of its seafood further exacerbating the situation, he adds “We urge diners not to discriminate against Japanese ingredients due to this ban. It’s important that we preserve the rich culture of Japanese food in Hong Kong.”
Above Yoshiyuki Sato of Kaen Teppanyaki
Above The seafood offerings at Kaen Teppanyaki
Yoshiyuki Sato of Kaen Teppanyaki
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At Kanesaka, a Japanese Omakase restaurant which opens its doors in Hong Kong next month, Taniguchi Seiji has decided that they will also be avoiding seafood from the banned zones and relying on trusted suppliers to diversify the menu. “Alternative seafood from regions such as Hokkaido, Toyama, Iwate, Kanagawa, Aomori and Nagasaki will be introduced,” states Seiji. But the head chef isn’t stopping there. “Our chefs will showcase their expertise by creatively incorporating locally sourced ingredients,” he mentions, promising a reinvention of familiar flavours. On the support that Hong Kong diners can give Japanese restaurants, Seiji adds, “Embracing these alternatives will demonstrate support and appreciation for our efforts. Recommending these restaurants to friends and family, and spreading the word, can also contribute to visibility. Understanding and patience from diners as restaurants navigate this transition will also be greatly valued.”
In case you missed it: Opening in September, Kanesaka Hong Kong is the city's newest omakase destination
Above Taniguchi Seiji of Kanesaka
Taniguchi Seiji of Kanesaka
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The voices echoing the struggles of this transition aren't limited. Shun Sato, who uses nearly 80% of imported Japanese ingredients at Censu, also remarks on the shift they’re undergoing. “Nearly the whole menu will be affected by the import bans,” Sato reveals, emphasising the inclusion of seaweed in the restrictions. His strategy is twofold: sourcing alternatives from the cities that haven’t been banned, while adjusting the menu based on this change, and educating patrons on the geographical locations to ensure they have the confidence to dine with them. A nod to the city he serves, Sato enthuses, “As a Japanese restaurant in Hong Kong, we love this environment and the atmosphere of this energetic city… We also believe diners will understand our situation. We will continue to do our best to provide the best, in return for their support.”
Above Censu's jumbo golden kuruma ebi sushi
Above Shun Sato (Photo credit: @leedeefood)
Censu's jumbo golden kuruma ebi sushi
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Amidst the ebb and flow of debates over the Fukushima wastewater release, the culinary scene in Hong Kong stands at a crossroads. With concerns over safety, a difference in perception and factual understanding, the future of Japanese cuisine in the city hinges on informed choices and mutual trust. As the ripple effects continue, it is the collaboration of patrons, chefs, and stakeholders, armed with knowledge and understanding, that will determine the next chapter in the longstanding culinary relationship between Hong Kong and Japan.
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A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
