Shun Sato’s first solo restaurant is a continuation of his winning streak as a master of the art of the Japanese izakaya. The wabi-sabi-inspired, minimalistic decor is juxtaposed with a buzzing atmosphere during dinner service. Start with sashimi: oysters with yuzu sanbaizu or hamachi with tomato ponzu and crouton are reliable favourites. Potato salad is a work of art with a multitude of textures, while fried foods reign supreme: minced pork-filled chicken wings and truffled scallop-prawn-filled courgette flower tempura are among the most popular dishes. Save room for show-stopping carb dishes such as three-yellow chicken paella and crab miso udon with snow crab. A handful of sakes are available by the bottle; alternatively a highball from the great collection of cocktails is a perfect accompaniment to Censu’s no-fuss dishes.

Signature Dishes

• Mackerel with Yamagata dashi and parmesan cheese
• Zucchini flower tempura
• Unigiri

Tatler Tip

Censu reserves a handful of tables for walk-ins at opening.