Censu

Tucked along Gough Street, Censu feels closer to a chef’s living room than a formal dining room. Its design nods to the Japanese idea of wabi-sabi, embracing raw wood and imperfect textures to create a space that feels warm. Chef Shun Sato, whose career has moved from Tokyo to Sydney, London and Hong Kong, draws on the language of Japanese izakaya cooking but allows influences from his travels to slip naturally into the dishes. The menu wanders comfortably between traditional and contemporary. Raw seafood might arrive lightly dressed before the kitchen turns playful with plates like zucchini flower tempura with truffle purée and ‘fxxking paella’, featuring local three yellow chicken. The restaurant has the rhythm of a neighbourhood spot, one that values curiosity and a sense of ease.

Tatler Tip

Take a seat at the chef’s counter if possible. With only forty seats in the room, it offers the closest view of the kitchen and the best sense of how each dish comes together during service.