If you love food and wine, here’s how to spend 6 days in New Zealand

But one need not venture far from Christchurch to find such an experience. Christchurch is often regarded as a gateway city to the rest of the South Island, but in fact it offers much more. Inati, in the heart of the city, is helmed by British chef Simon Levy; with a name that translates into “to share”, dishes include creative bites like savoury Duck Trumpets (inspired by the eponymous New Zealand ice cream cone) filled with duck mousse and blackberry jam, and larger plates like dry-aged gurnard. 

The next day, we drive through Kaikōura, a coastal town on the way to Marlborough, and stop by an unassuming blue food truck by the ocean. Third-generation-owned Nin’s Bins has only two people within—founder Ronald Clark’s granddaughters, who are usually joined by their brother. Fresh crayfish (also known as marine rock lobsters in other parts of the world) are caught each morning just outside, and served fresh with a squeeze of lemon. 

Filled with crayfish, pāua patties, and rig (a type of shark that feeds on crayfish) fish and chips, our drive to Marlborough continues, and we know we are approaching the wine country when we see sheep grazing on vineyards. Marlborough is known for its Sauvignon Blanc, and there is probably no better known winery in New Zealand than Cloudy Bay, which has an extensive property that we tour.

But on the other extreme, boutique and family-owned vineyards have their charm; organic winery Clos Henri is one of these, with a cellar door located inside what was once a church. While oenology and viticulture is the main reason why visitors flock to Marlborough, it would be unwise to miss the Marlborough Sounds, ancient sunken river valleys where greenlipped mussels and king salmon reside. 

While South and North island are often compared, I don’t think this is possible; each is unique in different ways. However, some of our favourite dining experiences were definitely in Auckland, which we transferred to from Blenheim, near Marlborough. In terms of high-end dining, there is no where comparable to Return, which just opened its doors this April, helmed by Matt Lambert. The cooking here is elegant, purposeful and unfolds beautifully, from starting bites of fish and chips (which look nothing of the sort but replicate the textural crunch of golden chips and flaky fish perfectly) to an off menu pāua fry bread that spills with the mollusc’s juices.

A short drive out to Matakana is Brick Bay, which combines a vineyard, an expansive art and sculpture trail, and a farm-to-table restaurant. From sheep to beetroot, the majority of items served are from its own land. But one not need travel far to find good wines in Auckland. The Wine Room by David Nash offers an extensive selection of New Zealand and global wines.

While Return boasts white tablecloths and has a gentle air about it, Onslow sits on the opposite end of the spectrum with a dark, intimate palette within the spacious dining room. However, I’d have trouble choosing between which I’d choose between if I was pressed for time. When my eyes scroll the menu, what first strikes me is between the raw items and mains are a selection of what are known as treats—which also ended up being some of my favourite bites of the meal. Think indulgent snacks of devilled egg with glistening pearls of caviar and golden-brushed eclairs filled with crayfish. Sliced tableside is also cured alpine salmon, which gives way into generous silky slivers.

While the majority of restaurants take advantage of New Zealand produce, Ahi takes this to the next level with its own kitchen garden in South Auckland. Dishes in the menu have a distance listing in kilometers, showing how far from the restaurant produce is sourced.

While I thought my first and last taste of New Zealand produce would be in the country, it was actually in the air—I was served the likes of kūmara purée, cured salmon, and even stone fruits on my Air New Zealand flight, alongside Hawke’s Bay olive oil with linseed and malt bread—a menu curated by Onslow's Josh Emett himself. From the extensive selection of New Zealand wines (I was recommended the Vavasour Pinot Gris) to local ice cream with hokey pokey (honeycomb toffee), this set the tone for the days ahead and was the perfect beginning and end to my very first time in the country. 

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