Cover Mui Kai Quan, the founder of Chocha Foodstore and Shhhbuuuleee (Photo: Daniel Adams)
Mui Kai Quan, the founder of Chocha Foodstore and Shhhbuuuleee (Photo: Daniel Adams)
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The brain behind Chocha Foodstore and Shhhbuuuleee draws on his love for nose-to-tail dining
While many know Chocha Foodstore and Shhhbuuuleee for their selection of modern Asian sharing plates, natural wines, or innovative cocktails, few are likely to know the head chef of both restaurants by name. Well-natured and polite, Johor-born Mui Kai Quan sharpened his skills in Singapore, Oslo and London, before moving back to Malaysia, joining the team at modern Malaysian restaurant Chocha Foodstore in 2019 and more recently, co-founding Shhhbuuuleee in 2022, known for its modern Chinese take on food.
“I apply these skills and techniques I learned to familiar flavours to create the Asian dishes the restaurants are known for,” Mui explains. “I want to make local ingredients fun, exciting and delicious.” While Chocha Foodstore, one of Tatler Dining’s Top 20 Restaurants in 2023, focuses on the flavours of Borneo, Mui draws from his Chinese heritage when creating dishes at Shhhbuuuleee.
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Above Shhhbuuuleee's interior
Above Shhhbuuuleee's selection of drinks on display
Shhhbuuuleee's interior
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As Chocha Foodstore now approaches its seventh year of operation, Mui spends the majority of his time at Shhhbuuuleee, trusting his team to run the restaurant. “While the food at both eateries are different in nature, both are very close to my heart as they showcase my Malaysian Chinese roots,” he says with a smile.
“At Shhhbuuuleee, I am building a space that encompasses how I love to eat—casual, small plates that can be shared with a good range of sake, highballs, and wines. You can come in anytime, for snacks or desserts, for a spontaneous night out, or for a celebration.”
When asked about his favourite ingredient, Mui is quick to answer: “Pork! I grew up eating it, and it is an animal that can be used from nose to tail.” The amicable chef also has an affinity for incorporating offals and secondary cuts into his dishes, which we soon experience as we eat our way through the menu at Shhhbuuuleee.
Above Pig head terrine, one of the pork-forward dishes at Shhhbuuuleee
Pig head terrine, one of the pork-forward dishes at Shhhbuuuleee
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The gelatinous slices of pig head terrine we try melt in the mouth, while Szechuan pepper and chilli vinaigrette cut through the fat. Also served are tempura pig ears and thick-cut smoked beef tongue with edamame. However, one of my favourite dishes is the pork jowl, rendered to a delightful crisp, served with pineapple black beans and fermented chilli.
“These off-cuts are typically the most delicious parts, but are often forgotten,” Mui sighs, as I wrap a slice of pork jowl in one of the lettuce leaves served alongside. “When I visit farms, I ask farmers for their lesser-used cuts of meat, and try to incorporate them in dishes on my menu.”
See also: Where and what to eat: 9 eateries to try in Happy Mansion, PJ
Above Mui Kai Quan in Shhhbuuuleee's kitchen
Mui Kai Quan in Shhhbuuuleee's kitchen
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While flavour pairings at Shhhbuuuleee are not common—tofu with soy-cured yolk and tomato water, turnips and beetroot served with fu yu, pig head terrine with Szechuan pepper and fermented mustard green—it is Mui’s creative mind that make the dishes at Shhhbuuuleee so memorable.
“The focus of my dishes are always on ingredients, which we build around. For example, in the case of the pork jowl, I pair it with a sauce made from pineapple and black beans, as well as one made with chillies, to provide spice. Then, to cut through the fat, I provide leaves and strong herbs.”
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Above Mui Kai Quan on the pass at Shhhbuuuleee
Above Shhhbuuuleee's outdoor seating area
Mui Kai Quan on the pass at Shhhbuuuleee
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If you think the same way I do, the first thing you'll wonder is the meaning behind Shhhbuuuleee's name. Mui's response is: "Shhh means to be quiet, since the restaurant is next to a bookstore, and buuuleeee refers to the Cantonese phrase for don't care, which reflects our ethos of cooking food we love!"
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Credits
Photography: Daniel Adams
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
