Cover Photo: Stefan Johnson / Unsplash
Photo: Stefan Johnson / Unsplash
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Bombvinos Bodega and Bibio Natural Wine Bar make a case for bright and punchy natural wines as worthy companions to good food
Wine purists might argue that natural wines—defined as wines grown and produced with minimal intervention and additives—will never taste like the traditional ones. Still, those who love it explain it was never meant to be. Fans admit that its deviant qualities are actually what is most endearing. How exactly does one begin to appreciate natural wine?
From 2012 to 2021, Justin and Vanessa Apolonio had been working in Australia when they found themselves deeply immersed in the natural wine scene. Back then, Justin worked in IT, and Vanessa was a chemical engineer—industries that do not seem far from food and beverage. But, in their free time, they found themselves frequenting certain wine bars, shops, and wineries in their area sandwiched between two great winemaking regions.
Those places brought us the most joyful and memorable experiences with the most delicious and exciting wines that were full of life and character,
Justin states. “We learned that these focused on high-quality natural wines.”
Since moving back to the Philippines, they have started importing and distributing natural wines under their retail arm called Some Love and recently opened Bibio Natural Wine Bar with Kaity Chua Jayme and Melissa Orozco (Hola Bombon/Wild Poppy) in Poblacion, Makati.
Like the Apolonios, Bombvinos Bodega co-founder Paolo Monasterio was charmed by natural wines, having been exposed to them in San Francisco, a city known for its dynamic culinary scene.
“This journey began as I explored the city’s vibrant food scene, where these unique wines consistently made appearances,” he says. “What really drew me in was the sense of community around natural wines. It’s welcoming and unpretentious, which I found quite refreshing and exciting. The first time I tasted them, I was hooked by the distinct and exciting flavours they offered. It was an eye-opener, showing me a whole new world.”
When he and his friend Joey Osmeña (based in New York) decided to return to the Philippines, they both felt they could not live without natural wines and started bringing in bottles to test the market. With the success of their wine business, they decided to take it a step further and opened Bombvinos Bodega in Makati.
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Purists would argue that it is difficult to pair food with natural wines, but those who love it will suggest that one needs to alter their perspective. In the beverage’s newness, drinkers should be able to allow themselves to explore without inhibitions.
“We don’t like to be strict about pairing food with natural wine. You shouldn’t hesitate to drink whatever you feel like drinking with whatever you feel like eating,” Apolonio prods. Monasterio also advises: “The more you taste, the more you learn. I think there’s no single approach to it. Keeping an open mind is fun, as it allows you to try new things, mix and match flavours, and discover.”
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Bibio and Bombvinos offer small plates of food to go with their wine selections. Apolonio describes Bibio’s dishes as having “a good balance of acid and fat to complement most of our natural wines.” They have partnered with chefs Mianne Manguiat and Ruther Sandico in the kitchen, delivering an eclectic menu of globally inspired dishes from the partners’ travels and experiences.
“There is no particular cuisine, though the menu has a modern European and Australian touch,” he explains. “We feature small plates that are great for sharing, irresistibly savoury, but balanced with fresh and vibrant flavours. We like to work with common ingredients, combining simple preparations with more complex curing, ageing, pickling and fermentation, all done in-house. We aim to create complex dishes for those who feel like diving into them, but that is ultimately no-fuss and simply delicious.”
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In contrast, Bombvinos prefers to look inward and focus on Filipino flavours with innovative interpretations through the designs of chef Don Baldosano. His progressive Filipino restaurant Linamnam is known to champion local ingredients by harnessing their complexity using classical techniques, and the same ideals are applied in Bombvinos’s Pinoy bistronomy by using local ingredients to create both familiar and new dishes.
“The goal with each dish is to compliment the natural wines we offer, creating a fun, memorable, and enjoyable dining experience.”
The lesson here is that natural wine is neither meant to replicate nor to replace traditionally produced wines. However, it is an exciting new offering or a fun alternative to what we have grown accustomed to. Natural wine is here and thriving because there is a hungry (young) market that has opened its hearts and minds to it and is willing to learn and, as a result, appreciate what it has to offer.
As Apolonio puts it: “We love natural wines because they value providing this great experience above satisfying any preconceived ideas of what wine should be.”
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
