Cover The sienna-clad Binchotan JB dining room features a gleaming marble counter that seats just 12
The sienna-clad Binchotan JB dining room features a gleaming marble counter that seats just 12
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In downtown Johor Bahru, Chef Jordan Alexis Yap’s pristine Japanese cuisine marries premium ingredients with French finesse
Johor Bahru, better known for its bustling shopping centres and street food than fine dining, seems an unlikely setting for Hermès plates and Hokkaido uni. Yet here, in Malaysia’s southern gateway city, Binchotan JB has crafted something remarkable: an omakase experience that wouldn’t feel out of place in Ginza or Manhattan.
At a gleaming marble counter that seats just 12, Chef Jordan Alexis Yap brings a fresh perspective to this Tatler-recognised establishment, where sienna walls and considered lighting create an intimate dining space.
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Above Chef Jordan Alexis Yap at his marble counter station, where he meticulously plates each course
Chef Jordan Alexis Yap at his marble counter station, where he meticulously plates each course
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Named after the premium Japanese charcoal that is central to its cooking philosophy, Binchotan JB reflects Chef Yap’s devotion to craftsmanship in every detail.
“My inspiration stems from a desire to showcase binchotan in conjunction with ingredients sourced near the equator,” he explains. “I believe these elements complement Japanese cuisine exceptionally well, and my passion for charcoal cooking will be enhanced and refined through binchotan charcoal.”
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Above The zensai course arrives on Legle pedestals, each a study in colour and composition
Above Beetroot tart with sashimi cube marinated with Cedarwood smoked Maitake vinegar, served with ikura
The zensai course arrives on Legle pedestals, each a study in colour and composition
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The meal begins with three carefully composed zensai: a beetroot tart supporting cubes of sashimi marinated in cedar wood-smoked maitake vinegar, followed by a delicate “moon biscuit” filled with negitoro and seasoned with roasted shishito pepper.
The third appetiser, a dashi and nori wafer filled with foie gras mousse and Japanese strawberry compote, bridges East and West with surprising subtlety.
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Above Buri grilled and served with Myoga Bernaise sauce, roasted seaweed and soy sauce tuille and Japanese chrysanthemum
Buri grilled and served with Myoga Bernaise sauce, roasted seaweed and soy sauce tuille and Japanese chrysanthemum
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The sashimi course demonstrates range and technical precision. It includes both familiar and adventurous options: pristine slices of otoro with winter truffle, Spanish mackerel brightened by jalapeño sauce, and for the more daring, both raw and tempura preparations of shirako.
A Matoya oyster arrives adorned with Hokkaido bafun uni and Oscietra caviar, while hirame (flounder) is elevated by negi oil and sour miso.
Above Hokkaido scallop, shiitake fermented myoga crumble, uni paste smoked with green tea leaves and roasted seaweed Vinegar garnished with Coral Palace extract and butter tuille
Hokkaido scallop, shiitake fermented myoga crumble, uni paste smoked with green tea leaves and roasted seaweed Vinegar garnished with Coral Palace extract and butter tuille
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“To enhance our competitive position,” Chef Yap explains, “I took charge of transitioning Binchotan’s offering towards a more artistic and technically refined approach, moving beyond traditional Japanese aesthetics.”
This ambition is evident in the hot dishes, where the kitchen’s versatility shines. Buri (yellowtail) comes with myoga béarnaise sauce and a crisp architecture of roasted seaweed and soy sauce tuille. Hokkaido scallop shares the plate with shiitake and fermented myoga crumble, while uni paste smoked with green tea leaves adds depth. The Carabinero prawn dish shows particular finesse, featuring a creative “prawn milk” made from head roe and Hokkaido milk, brightened with yuzu zest.
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Above The sienna-clad dining room features a gleaming marble counter that seats just twelve, where diners can watch their meals prepared on binchotan charcoal behind glas
The sienna-clad dining room features a gleaming marble counter that seats just twelve, where diners can watch their meals prepared on binchotan charcoal behind glas
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A 14-day dry-aged Irish duck smoked with applewood and served with wasabi-accented potato fondant offers a thoughtful interlude before the arrival of sake-marinated wagyu. The beef comes with considered accompaniments: Icelandic sea salt smoked with maple and birchwood, house-fermented barley miso, and pickled red cabbage for contrast.
Here, attention to detail extends beyond the plate. Each course arrives on carefully selected Hermès crockery, with Laguiole silverware adding a touch of French refinement to this Japanese-Malaysian fusion. The zensai are elevated—quite literally—on Legle pedestals, transforming each bite into a miniature sculpture.
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Above Chef Jordan Alexis Yap
Chef Jordan Alexis Yap
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“This will involve meticulous attention to detail,” Chef Yap notes of his vision, “and the pursuit of Michelin-level quality in all aspects of production.”
The team’s commitment to excellence extends to the dining experience itself. “Our objective is to cultivate an experience characterised by exceptional service, meticulous attention to detail, and ultimately, to foster customer loyalty by converting first-time patrons into regulars.”
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Above 14-day dry-aged Irish duck smoked with applewood served on Hermès’s signature H Deco collection
14-day dry-aged Irish duck smoked with applewood served on Hermès’s signature H Deco collection
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As Malaysia’s culinary scene continues to mature, Binchotan JB under Chef Yap represents something noteworthy: a restaurant that honours its Japanese roots while confidently embracing innovation. Premium ingredients—from Hokkaido uni to Icelandic sea salt—are transformed by a distinctly Malaysian sensibility. In doing so, it offers a compelling perspective on Malaysia’s evolving place in the culinary landscape.
For those making the journey to Johor Bahru, Binchotan JB offers something increasingly uncommon in fine dining: the opportunity to experience a chef executing with precision while continuing to push boundaries. This kind of place reminds us why we seek out restaurants like this—not just for sustenance but for moments of surprise and genuine culinary craft.
Credits
Photography: Binchotan JB
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Jennifer Choo is Regional Managing Editor of Tatler Homes, covering architecture, interior design, and art across Asia. Based in Malaysia, she oversees regional content on luxury residential design and contemporary art collections. Legally trained but choosing to pursue her passion for design, she previously led notable design publications and worked as an interior stylist and art consultant for property developers, design firms, and private clients.
