Fat Cow head chef Shingo Iijima
Cover Fat Cow head chef Shingo Iijima

Eating and drinking are two of the best things you can do in Japan’s buzzy capital; the Tokyo native clues us in on his favourite spots

If you have been checking your social media feed lately, it seems like everyone is in Japan for a holiday. A favourite destination of many Singaporeans, the archipelago is home to a plethora of exceptional restaurants and bars. Shingo Iijima, Fat Cow’s new head chef, knows its reputation all too well, having grown up in the vibrant city of Tokyo. 

“There are always new ideas and new inspirations available in Tokyo,” shares Iijima of his home city which nurtured his love for food and cooking. This led him to pursue a career in the kitchens of Zaimokutei, where he was taught the foundations of kaiseki, and Mutsukari, where he learned the art of kappo

With a deep understanding of washoku, or Japanese cuisine, he brings a slice of Japan to Fat Cow with his revamped menus anchored in kaiseki cuisine, and with Wagyu in the spotlight. His creations are inspired by his Japanese roots, and he shares with Tatler Dining the restaurants and bars he misses the most in Tokyo, Japan.

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When was your last trip to Tokyo? How did you spend your holiday there?
Shingo Iijima (SI): I was in Tokyo last August. I went see my family, and we planned a small domestic trip to Ishikawa Prefecture. We stayed in ryokan there for a few days; the ryokan uses local products like Kaga Yasai or Kaga vegetables. Only 15 unique types of vegetables that have been cultivated in Kanazawa city since 1945 or earlier can be designated as Kaga Yasai. Since I like Kaga vegetables, I thoroughly enjoyed the food at the ryokan.

What do you miss most on the food/drink front when you are away or haven’t been back for a while?
SI: There are so many types of good food in Singapore that it’s hard to decide, but I miss Japanese soba the most, especially cold handmade soba that has been boiled at the best timing and served with a little hon wasabi. When you eat cold soba, only 20 per cent to 30 per cent of the soba noodles picked up with chopsticks should be dipped in soba sauce. I haven't found my favourite soba shop in Singapore yet, but I’m always looking.

If you have visitors/guests with you, where do you ensure you always go to give them a real taste of home?

SI: I eat sukiyaki with them in Asakusa. I like to go to Imahan. I also eat seafood in Tsukiji and Toyosu, but here, we don’t decide on a specific restaurant. We choose a restaurant while walking around.

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Where are some of the places you go to find authentic dishes in Tokyo?
SI: For ramen, I head to Watanabe at Takadanobaba. It has a wide variety of ramen, and you can trust the shop because the owner is a ramen expert. I recommend Ajitama ramen.

When I am craving for sushi and sashimi, Sushi Kitamura at Tachikawa is the place to be as it serves Edo-mae sushi, omakase-style. The restaurant is very small, with only four to five seats. The sushi chef pays close attention to the sushi and the service. Everything is carefully prepared. You can feel the care when you eat.

For tempura, I book Tempura Motoyoshi Matoba at Aoyama, which serves tempura omakase. You can describe its tempura course as “state of the art” as the culinary team showcases the season through tempura, and the presentation is very new and interesting.

Kappa at Komazawa specialises in simmered beef tendon, and it’s really delicious. The atmosphere inside the store is quite old-fashioned, and very interesting because of that.

Any other dishes you would recommend?
SI: Mizutaki Genkai at Shinjuku 3 Choume station. This is another omakase restaurant which specialises in mizutaki. It means “cooked in water” and is a type of nabe dish. The stewed chicken white soup is the best.

Where do you like to meet up with old friends for food and drinks?
SI: I usually go to Tsukishima Monja Okoge Tsukishima Honten for okonomiyaki and monjyayaki. As its name suggests, this izakaya is located in Tsukishima. When my mother ran an izakaya, she was famous for making very delicious okonomiyaki. Because of my mother's influence, I used to treat my friends to okonomiyaki when I was in high school, and I have memories of that.

Where do you like to meet up with old friends for food and drinks?
SI: Birdland at Kitasenju. The owner is a very delicate and artistic person. In fact, he originally operated a flower shop. He has a lot of knowledge about whisky, so it's fun to talk about whisky with him.

What drink do you often order and why?
SI: Bourbon. Sometimes I ask for it on the rocks; sometimes I add a little water, and sometimes a little soda. It depends on my mood at that time. I love eating chocolate and drinking bourbon together. When I do that, I don’t feel the strength of the alcohol as much.

Are there any new dining places you hope to visit when you are back?
SI: Nikuya Tanaka in Ginza. I couldn't go last time because I couldn't get a reservation. It has creative and delicious menus that feature meat. Also, I think I can learn something from the meat omakase.


What do you always take back to Singapore with you when you leave Tokyo?
SI: Setta or Japanese sandals. They are a must-have! in terms of food, I try to always bring back Akuma Yakumi; it’s a type of furikake for noodles. Ordinary dried noodles become dramatically more delicious by sprinkling this.


Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home in Singapore?
SI: Imamura at Sentosa. I feel that a lot of lesser-known Japanese techniques can be found there.

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