A Taste of Britannia at Shangri-La The Fort: a refined encounter with British heritage

As we settled into our seats and browsed the menu, one feature stole our attention—a tempting selection of British cheeses on full display, next to their collection of wines curated for the event. The plate features five cheeses, served with honey and pickled chutney: the blue Stilon, creamy and bold; the sage Derby with a unique herbal edge; the bright orange Red Fox, an aged Red Leicester with a wonderfully sweet and nutty profile; the rich and firm Dorset Drum aged farmhouse cheddar; and the delectable oakwood smoked cheddar. 

Paying homage to the iconic British hors d'œuvre, chef Brands’s prawn cocktail arrives in a classic martini glass—fresh, meaty prawns in a tangy cocktail sauce with a mild kick, carefully laid on a nest of greens, tomatoes, and avocado. Light, fresh, and satisfyingly retro, it sets a fitting tone.

Equally elegant is the hot smoked salmon, prepared with Balmoral fillet—which chef Brands tells us is the premium, most tender cut of the fish—smoked ever so gently for 90 minutes. The result? A beautifully moist and flaky fillet that effortlessly melts in the mouth with just a whisper of smoke. Sat atop cauliflower purée, lightly dressed with citrus oil, and punctuated by walnuts for added texture, it’s a refreshingly simple dish that results from meticulous cooking and restraint.

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Chef Brands’s "A Taste of Britannia" menu would not be complete without a dish synonymous with British cuisine: the Scotch egg. Here, it takes the form of a lightly spiced beef and lamb meatball, beautifully enveloping a jammy egg. A delightful play on textures—from its breaded crusty exterior to its juicy minced meat centre and that soft-set egg yolk—the British staple also benefited from dimensions in flavour, thanks to its earthy bed of greens and punchy sweet and sour chutney.

A beef Wellington is a dish that immediately turns heads, a much-awaited feature of Sunday roasts. With respect for tradition and an appreciation for innovation, Brands takes creative liberties with this beloved classic, crafting individual Wellingtons stuffed with a prized, luxury delicacy: foie gras.

“The beef Wellington is one of my signature dishes,“ Brands reveals. “If you look at a classical beef Wellington, it’s always one big piece for the whole family. It‘s a carvery element—no one does individual Wellington. I took this on many years back, and I elevated it with foie gras.” Cooked medium, the succulent steak is topped with wild forest mushrooms, foie gras, and cured ham, all wrapped in a golden pastry and finished with a tantalising red wine sauce perfumed with truffle.

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Sweet tooths are well-rewarded at A Taste of Britannia, as desserts are notable highlights from the menu. The Eton Mess strikes a sophisticated balance between the crisp meringue, luscious whipped cream, bright raspberry sauce, and fresh assortment of strawberries, blueberries and raspberries—a treat that would pair wonderfully with a cup of Earl Grey tea or perhaps the recommended Veuve Clicquot Champagne.

After something a bit more sinful? Chef Brands’s decadent sticky toffee pudding is not to be missed, with a moist, molasses-rich cake stuffed with dates, a scoop of refined vanilla ice cream, a dangerously addictive caramel sauce, and extra slices of dates that add sweetness and texture. Great on its own, and even better with an opulent sherry or rich espresso.

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Still thirsty? The hotel’s speakeasy, The Back Room (Tatler Best Asia 100 Bars 2024), is also popping up at The Hub with its new mobile Bee’s Knees gin bar, showcasing their very own Bee’s Knees gin. Stop by to sample their signature cocktails or create your very own G&T with an array of tonics and garnishes at your disposal.

A Taste of Britannia is a quiet tribute to the enduring appeal of British fare—hearty, nostalgic, and thoughtfully prepared. Under chef Brands’s steady hand, each dish stays true to its roots, offering diners a taste of comfort shaped by tradition, executed with quiet confidence and a flair for fresh perspectives.

Catch this exclusive pop-up at The Hub, 4/F Shangri-La The Fort, Manila until June 8. Lunch is served from 12:00–2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5:30–9:30 p.m. For reservations, call +63 917 536 3287 or email eats.slfm@shangri-la.com.

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