Vietnamese tea: discovering the soul of a timeless tradition

What is the difference between handmade tea production and modern tea production?

Nguyen Thu Trang: The greatest difference lies in the heart and hands of the maker. Handmade tea is an art form. It depends on the skill, intuition and experience of the tea master. The same tea bud, when handled by a connoisseur, can be transformed into a work of art. Handmade production gives each tea a personality, a uniqueness, and even a subtle emotional quality in every sip.

In modern production, machinery ensures precision and consistency. In the export market, where each batch must meet identical standards, technology is essential. Machines make the tea uniform; artisans make it exceptional.

But I believe it is that element of excellence, the “goodness” that forms the soul of tea, something no machine can ever replicate. At Hacoocha, we bring together both worlds: machinery to guarantee quality, and people to preserve the essence. As we like to say, standard tea comes from machines, good tea comes from hands.

During the manufacturing process, can we regulate the compounds in tea such as caffeine, tannins, catechins, theaflavins or theanine as we wish?

Nguyen Thu Trang: Yes, but not in a way that allows complete freedom. Tea is not like industrial brewing, where ingredients can be added at will. Adjusting compounds such as caffeine, tannin, catechin, theaflavin or theanine is an art that lies in balancing tea variety, terroir, harvest timing and processing method.

For instance, if we want a low-caffeine tea for evening drinking, we select mature leaves rather than young buds. If the goal is a sweet, smooth aftertaste, fermentation or drying temperatures must be adjusted with precision so as not to damage the structure of theanine. In other words, we do not “control” the tea, but rather listen to it, accompany it, and work with its character to guide it in the direction we wish, much like persuading a friend, not commanding them.

Read more: 4 ancient tea varieties are the pride of Vietnam

Of the factors that affect the flavour of tea, which do you think has the strongest impact on the final taste?

Pham Thanh Hung: The first and most decisive factor is the raw material, the tea variety itself. Next is the soil, and especially the age of the tree. An old tree can yield a completely different flavour from a young one, even under identical processing. Finally, there is technique: temperature, drying, rolling, pressing, brewing or fermenting... Every step has the potential to alter flavour in subtle ways. Even the resin released from leaves during pressing can change the taste of the finished tea.

Can you share the difference between types of tea, such as green tea and fermented tea?

Pham Thanh Hung: Each variety has its own “personality”, and with that come different effects. Green tea retains most of the natural compounds in the leaf, as fermentation is halted through the “enzyme killing” technique. It is therefore high in antioxidants, supports the cardiovascular system and is believed to enhance skin health. Yet it also contains plenty of caffeine, which is why drinking it at night can cause sleeplessness.

Fermented teas such as black or yellow tea take another path. Their fermentation produces compounds that aid digestion and fat metabolism, while helping to “warm” the body and ease mild colds. In essence, each type of tea is the outcome of a distinct processing journey, creating different flavours and benefits. Drinking tea, I often say, is like choosing a companion for a particular moment of the day, or a stage in life (laughs).

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In your journey of making and promoting tea, have you ever felt that the art of drinking Vietnamese tea is being overshadowed by Chinese, Japanese or Taiwanese culture?

Pham Thanh Hung: In truth, we have been overshadowed for thousands of years. Part of this comes from our habit of imitating other tea cultures, both in how we make and how we drink tea. This tendency has blurred the identity of Vietnamese tea and made it harder to define what truly belongs to us.

I believe that instead of following others, we must persist in making tea in our own way. Vietnamese tea needs its own direction, shaped by our climate, our soil, and our way of life, all of which are distinctive. Vietnam does not have a codified “tea ceremony” like Japan, but we do have a simple, everyday ritual of drinking tea that is deeply rooted in life. From birth through the milestones of existence, the tea tree has always been a companion to the Vietnamese people.

What is the biggest challenge when we make and produce Vietnamese tea?

Nguyen Thu Trang: For me, the greatest challenge does not lie in technique but in mindset. We are blessed with ancient trees, rare raw materials and skilled artisans, yet we lack a modern way of thinking about agricultural production, especially with tea.

Another obstacle is the lack of coherence across the entire process from cultivation, harvesting and processing to packaging and storytelling, whether on a regional or national scale. A fine batch of tea will struggle to reach international markets without an ecosystem to support it. We are often adept at making, but less skilled at telling. In the global marketplace, the story leads and the product follows. If we do not tell our story, others will tell it for us.

Pham Thanh Hung: I would say the biggest challenge is the market. Vietnamese tea is excellent, but it is still searching for its place. The problem is not the quality of the tea, but the way we reach customers. Another difficulty is the lack of unity. Each maker works differently, each region follows its own approach, and there is little willingness to come together to create shared standards, consistent quality and a common identity for Vietnamese tea.

And then there is competition. Chinese, Japanese and Taiwanese teas all have centuries of branding behind them, with clearly defined positions on the world stage. By contrast, Vietnamese tea, though rich in natural advantages, still lacks the drive that comes from policy, communication and structured marketing. Yet I see this as a golden moment for committed, systematic tea makers to spark a new wave for Vietnamese tea, built on real quality and authentic stories.

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In your opinion, what kind of space is suitable for drinking tea?

A place where you feel at ease. The spirit of tea is not only “still” but also “dynamic”, so the setting can be flexible according to personal preference. It does not always have to be quiet or peaceful. Tea itself carries a meditative quality, and depending on the mindset of the drinker, it can bring peace wherever they choose to be.

Is the “art of arrangement” in tea drinking important?

I have often been told I am rather “picky” about the tea table (laughs). What may look simple is in fact deliberately arranged. Each item has its own form, chosen to serve its function, yet never neglecting the overall aesthetic. Only then can the art of tea create layered experiences and emotions.

In your opinion, how has the tea drinking space of young people evolved compared to ancient traditions?

Every era brings its own styles and trends of tea drinking. To me, tradition is what we inherit and how we choose to connect with the past. In the 4.0 age, change comes faster than ever. Today, the tea spaces of young Vietnamese are becoming increasingly personalised. Each person has their own way of approaching and presenting tea. This “decentralised” style is varied, and no less engaging.

Is it possible to convey the emotions and spirit of tea art through other forms, such as music, poetry or photography, without actually brewing tea?

Perhaps (laughs). In fact, I also “play” with all the art forms you mentioned. There is a saying: “Playing is a lot of work”, but I see “playing” as a lifelong pursuit. Without play, tea would lose its layers of feeling. The art of tea needs creativity, a weaving together of tradition and modernity.

What makes the soul of Vietnamese tea different from that of Chinese, Japanese or Taiwanese tea? Is it the soil, the variety, the technique, or the way it is enjoyed?

Each country has its own symbols when it comes to tea. In Vietnam, the most distinctive feature is our culture of iced tea and black tea. From pavement stalls to family meals, tea is a habit deeply embedded in daily life. The saying “a cup of tea is the beginning of a conversation” best expresses this difference. At its essence, the Vietnamese tea table is about connection. In today’s society, where people are often too absorbed in their phones, tea invites us to pause, put the screen aside, and reconnect with one another.

With the development of tea worldwide, what do you think Vietnamese tea should aim for? Following its own identity or following the international trend?

Vietnamese tea culture already has its own unique identity, refined and beautiful, without the need to adopt elaborate rituals. What the tea community in Vietnam should pursue is greater connection and collaboration, so that together we can create impact and share our tea culture with a wider audience. My sincere hope is that we learn to appreciate one another more, while respecting our differences along the journey of building a “Vietnamese tea civilisation”.

And perhaps, in every tender bud picked at dawn, we can still sense the breath of a distant age, when tea was the bond between earth, sky and humankind. In conversations with today’s artisans and experts, the many “faces” of tea become clearer, as does the fact that drinking tea has always been deeply rooted in Vietnamese life.

With its ancestral trees, Vietnam has embraced tea as an essential part of a cultural current that has flowed through countless eras. Each fragrant cup, steeped in the flavour of heaven and earth, continues to nurture a timeless beauty within us, day after day.

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