Legacy 80: Discover 4 Hanoi coffee shops once seen as ‘sanctuaries’ for politicians

At Giang, the ritual begins with tasting the thick, sweet foam before stirring it into the coffee below, revealing a balance of flavours. It is a small but telling reflection of Hanoi’s leisurely pace, a rhythm of life that even hurried travellers find hard to resist.

More than a longstanding coffee shop, Giang has become a cultural symbol. Its enduring appeal lies not in grandeur, but in simplicity and authenticity, qualities that continue to define Hanoi’s charm.

If Giang is synonymous with egg coffee, Lam Café is remembered for its bond with Hanoi’s artists. Founded by Nguyen Van Lam, affectionately known as Lam ‘toet’, the café became an unplanned gallery in the city’s heart. Born in the early 1950s as a small stall in the Chi Linh flower garden, it later moved to 60 Nguyen Huu Huan. Though its walls were lime-washed and its tables plain wood, the atmosphere was enough to draw generations of painters, writers and musicians.

Writer Nguyen Tuan once quipped: ‘On the right bank of the Seine stands the Louvre, and on the left bank of the Red River there is Lam Café.’ His witty remark captured what many felt, that within its simple walls lay a haven of art and freedom for Hanoi’s creative spirit.

During the lean years, Mr Lam supported many painters and musicians by accepting ‘debts in paintings’. Over time, sketches by celebrated figures such as Bui Xuan Phai, Nguyen Sang, Duong Bich Lien and composer Van Cao came to adorn the café’s walls. What began as barter has since become a living gallery, safeguarding the artistic soul of Hanoi in the 20th century.

Visiting Café Lam today, one may savour not only a traditional cup of coffee, but also a rare cultural atmosphere. The hum of the streets mingles with the conversations inside, evoking memories of an era when this café was a rendezvous for intellectuals and a haven for kindred spirits.

Above all, the Lam experience is one of waiting. The barista rinses the old aluminium filter and glass with hot water, before slowly pouring the kettle’s contents over the coffee grounds. As the liquid drips through, customers are free to gaze at the café’s vivid ‘picture garden’. For these qualities, Lam has long been regarded as a cultural treasure, a place that preserves the stories and spirits of a generation of gifted artists.

See also: Decode your daily brew: must-know coffee terms for coffee lovers

On the map of Hanoi’s historic cafés, the ‘four pillars’ of Nhan, Nhi, Di and Giang are names woven into legend. Among them, Nhan remains the most unassuming and enduring. Established in 1946, it has weathered the city’s many changes while retaining its rustic identity at 39D Hang Hanh (Hoan Kiem). A simple sign, a modest interior, and cups of strong coffee poured into plain glasses are its hallmarks.

Unlike Giang, famed for its egg coffee, or Lam, which became synonymous with the arts, Nhan’s charm lies in its lack of embellishment. What regulars cherish is the smooth, full-bodied flavour that lingers long after each sip. Here, Hanoians rediscover the city’s quieter, more refined rhythm of life.

Through the years, Nhan has never yielded to trends of chic interiors or elaborate drinks. Its decision to preserve its original look has made it a distinctive landmark. That very simplicity has created a meeting place for generations from the elderly, who have spent decades with the café, to the young, who come seeking the ‘true taste of Hanoi coffee’.

Nhan is neither loud nor defined by novelty. Its heritage rests instead on its quiet consistency. With a cup of strong black coffee, in a modest corner, customers can lose themselves in the nostalgia of Hanoi.

Amid Hanoi’s layers of memory, All Day Coffee at 55 Hang Bun has chosen a contemporary narrative, yet set within a house more than 125 years old. Its aged bricks, wooden shutters and warm lighting create a space that feels slow enough to keep the soul of the street alive, yet modern enough to embrace today’s rhythm.

That setting became the backdrop for a remarkable scene. On the morning of 11 September 2023, US Secretary of State Antony Blinken, part of the delegation accompanying President Joe Biden, stopped here to share coffee with Vietnam’s Foreign Minister Bui Thanh Son. Blinken ordered egg coffee, while others chose the traditional filter. Their conversation unfolded around a large table on the second floor of the newly restored house. What seemed like a small moment spoke volumes about the vitality of Hanoi’s coffee culture – modest in scale, yet layered with meaning and history.

From a cultural viewpoint, All Day Coffee stands at the intersection of ‘Hanoi taste’ and the city’s evolving café habits. Coffee beans are carefully roasted, the open bar is manned by young staff, and the menu is rich in choice. While modern in service, the focus remains on Vietnamese classics such as filter coffee and egg coffee. This balance explains why international delegations and visitors are drawn here: a cup of authentic Hanoi coffee, enjoyed in a renewed space. Sometimes, that is all it takes to understand why coffee is so loved by Hanoians, and how it has become a distinctly Vietnamese language of hospitality.

For those wishing to sense the rhythm of the capital through coffee, All Day offers a complete ‘Hanoi moment’. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee, the sound of spoons against cups, windows opening to the street below. These details bring the city close enough that even weighty conversations feel more intimate.

In cafés that have stood for half a century, it is clear that Hanoi lives not only in its ancient houses or moss-streaked streets, but also in each cup of coffee steeped in memory and culture. Here lies the flavour of daily life, anecdotes of artists and intellectuals, even the trace of diplomacy when foreign guests seek to understand the country through a simple drink. At times, to grasp the essence of Hanoi, all one needs is to sit in an old café, listen to the city’s murmur, and let the mingling of bitterness and sweetness tell the rest.

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