Cover Vietnam is the birthplace of ancient tea varieties
Vietnam is the birthplace of ancient tea varieties
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Vietnam is not only an importer of tea, but also the birthplace of ancient tea varieties.
In today’s culinary world, tea is increasingly spoken of as a language in its own right, closely tied to notions of “original”, “traditional” and “natural”, values now being rediscovered through modern tastes. Many chefs have turned to Vietnamese tea as an ingredient to tell stories of the country, homeland, a frugal way of life, and their own journeys to the highlands. And the cradle of Vietnamese tea lies in its ancient varieties, found deep in remote mountain ranges.
In the thin morning mist of the Northwest, amid undulating slopes and vast, hushed landscapes, ancient tea trees have stretched skyward for centuries. Vietnamese tea carries within it the essence of land, sky and mountains. Tucked under the canopy of old forests or scattered across moss-clad rocky slopes, these venerable trees unfurl their leaves year after year, gathering dew, drawing in the wind, and distilling the soul of their surroundings into each young bud. Every tea-growing region tells its own story with a unique voice, rich in flavour, with a lingering sweetness like the cultural lifeblood of the Vietnamese people.
Here we uncover Vietnam’s ancient tea varieties to savour, through a steaming cup, the depth of tradition and heritage.
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Suoi Giang ancient tea (Yen Bai)
At more than 1,300 metres above sea level, where clouds drift lazily across the mountainsides, Suoi Giang tea embodies the enduring spirit of Vietnamese tea culture. Here, the Shan Tuyet variety of ancient tea trees grow wild amid old forests, some hundreds, even thousands, of years old. Their roots plunge deep into the earth to draw up the purest essence of heaven and soil. Each tender bud is cloaked in a fine down, white as morning frost, earning comparisons to snow crowning the mountaintops.
Suoi Giang tea offers an aroma that could be called “once in a thousand years”, sweet as the forest’s morning dew, subtle yet enriched with woody notes and the fragrance of wild flowers and grass. A light initial astringency soon melts into a gentle, lingering sweetness that flows warmly through the throat.
Above Suoi Giang tea offers an aroma that could be called “once in a thousand years (photo: Pinterest)
Suoi Giang tea offers an aroma that could be called “once in a thousand years (photo: Pinterest)
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When steeped, the liquor glows golden like young honey, luminous and clear as a pocket of mountain sky. Tea connoisseurs speak of it as “the spirit of the mountain”, cherished not only for its singular taste but for the pure, almost ethereal sense of calm it imparts.
Ta Xua ancient tea (Son La)
Rising over 1,500 metres, shrouded year-round in a shawl of clouds, Ta Xua has the quiet enchantment of a highland fairyland. Its “Shan” ancient tea trees grow not in neat rows, but wild along the mountain slopes, veiled by mists and dense forests. They stand like sages, slowly drawing nourishment from the soil and the air, imbuing each bud with the pristine breath of the high mountains.
Ta Xua tea is renowned for its profound aftertaste. Unlike other ancient varieties, it possesses a notably robust aroma. The flavour begins with a gentle bitterness and slight astringency, swiftly giving way to a smooth, mellow sweetness. Its fragrance is pure, touched with notes of wood, wild blossoms and dew. The liquor shimmers like late-afternoon sunlight.
Above Ta Xua tea is renowned for its profound aftertaste (photo: Unsplash)
Ta Xua tea is renowned for its profound aftertaste (photo: Unsplash)
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Remarkably, Ta Xua tea contains very little tannin, so despite its bold taste it remains easy to drink, leaving no trace of bitterness. This is why it is so beloved by tea enthusiasts seeking moments of stillness and reflection in a hectic world. Every cup evokes the serene beauty of the Northwest, inviting the drinker back to the unspoilt peace of its homeland.
Phin Ho ancient tea (Ha Giang)
In the highlands of Hoang Su Phi district, famed for its breathtaking terraced fields, Phin Ho enchants visitors not only with its scenery, but also with its ancient Shan tea trees, scattered at elevations of 1,200 to 1,700 metres. The tea grows mainly in the wild, its roots anchored deep in mineral-rich soil. The year-round cool climate and high humidity help each leaf store precious nutrients.
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Phin Ho ancient tea is cherished for its gentle flavour, as soft as morning dew. When brewed, the liquor shines clear green, delicate and cool, infused with the scent of grass, trees and open sky. Every sip carries the drinker into a pristine realm, where time seems to pause among the layered mountain ranges.
Above Phin Ho ancient tea is cherished for its gentle flavour, as soft as morning dew (photo: Fin Ho Tra)
Above Every sip carries the drinker into a pristine realm, where time seems to pause among the layered mountain ranges (photo: Fin Ho Tra)
Phin Ho ancient tea is cherished for its gentle flavour, as soft as morning dew (photo: Fin Ho Tra)
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What sets Phin Ho apart is its entirely hand-crafted production, following the traditions of the local Dao people. From picking leaves in the early morning, while still jewelled with dew, to roasting by hand in a cast-iron pan, every step is meticulous. Research from the Northern Mountainous Agricultural and Forestry Science Institute shows that this traditional method helps preserve high levels of polyphenols and antioxidants, giving the tea exceptional health benefits.
Khe Coc ancient tea (Thai Nguyen)
Tucked away in the northern mountains of Thai Nguyen, known as the “capital of Vietnamese tea”, Khe Coc is home to centuries-old trees that yield a rare and treasured tea. With a year-round cool climate, an average altitude of 500 to 800 metres, and soil rich in clay and humus, the area offers ideal conditions for tea to flourish. These natural advantages give the leaves their aromatic depth, abundant nutrients and high levels of natural antioxidants.
Khe Coc ancient tea has a signature cool, sweet taste, low in astringency and tannins perfect for producing premium green tea, especially young tea. This variety is made from the newest buds, small and curled like a shrimp’s nose. When brewed, the liquor takes on a clear yellow-green hue, with a fragrance reminiscent of fresh rice and a hint of forest leaves after rain. The flavour is gentle, smooth and lightly sweet on the finish, soothing even on the hottest northern days.
Above Khe Coc ancient tea has a signature cool, sweet taste, low in astringency and tannins (photo: Pinterest)
Khe Coc ancient tea has a signature cool, sweet taste, low in astringency and tannins (photo: Pinterest)
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Local surveys, supported by the Thai Nguyen Agricultural Development Centre, show that the ancient tea trees of Khe Coc are predominantly indigenous Shan Tuyet, preserved through generations by local hands. This dedication not only sustains a prized tea variety, but also helps protect biodiversity in the northern midlands.
From Suoi Giang with its fragrant morning mists, to Ta Xua and the deep breath of its mountain winds; from Phin Ho, as quiet as an old Dao folk song, to the pure clarity of Khe Coc, each tea variety stands as a heritage, a testament to the enduring strength of Vietnam’s tea culture. The trees, hundreds or even thousands of years old, rise among the clouds, steeped in the sacred air of mountains and rivers. They grow slowly in ancient forests, so that each young leaf can gather the essence of all four seasons.
