The rise of Asian wine: a new era for viticulture?

The ascent of Asian wine has also coincided with a discreet cultural shift: from rice wines steeped in tradition to modern grape varieties. In Japan, sake remains a national emblem, yet Koshu white wine is becoming a sought-after choice for kaiseki banquets. In Korea, a younger generation favours rosé for its light and pleasing finish, a marked departure from the bold sweetness of makgeolli. China, long defined by its tales of “three cups of Liangshan white wine”, now commands attention with internationally recognised festivals. Turning away from time-honoured rice wines, Asian nations are embracing the robust character of grapes and crafting wines with an identity of their own, fit for global competition.

A Vinexpo survey (2023) forecasts wine consumption in Asia to grow by 4.5 per cent annually, with China, Japan and Vietnam leading the charge. Driving this expansion are urban youth and an expanding middle class, fuelling demand for both imported labels and homegrown bottles. At the same time, refined viticultural practices, modern fermentation techniques and the nuanced interplay of heritage with Western influence have elevated Asian wines in both quality and character, capturing the attention of connoisseurs around the world.

The Land of the Rising Sun is among the pioneers of wine in Asia. At the foot of Mount Fuji, Yamanashi Prefecture is regarded as the cradle of Japanese winemaking. With its delicate pale pink skin, the indigenous Koshu grape lies at the heart of many of the nation’s white wines, prized for their light acidity and graceful finish.

According to the Japan Wine Association, by 2024 Japan will have more than 300 official wineries, while domestic production has risen by nearly 20 per cent over the past decade (2010–2020). Smaller producers in particular are harnessing the region’s layered terrain and varied microclimates to craft terroir-driven wines, each bottle reflecting the distinctive character of its vineyard, from aroma to structure.

Beyond volume and quality, Japanese wine also wins the hearts of connoisseurs through its balance of tradition and innovation, marrying Western methods of ageing with local nuance. Oak barrels, precise temperature control during fermentation and modern harvesting techniques are used alongside cold fermentation to preserve freshness. At the same time, chemical and biological analysis is applied throughout cultivation and bottling to ensure consistency. The result is wine of refined, reliable quality.

By blending Western expertise with time-honoured traditions, Japanese producers have secured a place on the international stage, earning accolades at competitions such as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Japan Wine Competition.

Home to the world’s second largest vineyard area (after Spain), China has long invested in wine production. Regions such as Ningxia, Hebei and Shandong are beginning to establish distinctive identities. Of these, Ningxia, with its arid climate, gravelly soil and wide diurnal temperature range, has been hailed as the “new Bordeaux of Asia”, producing wines to rival the great regions of the world.

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According to the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine), China produced around 5 million litres of wine in 2022, with estates such as Silver Heights, Grace Vineyard and Changyu meeting international standards. Cabernet Sauvignon remains the cornerstone, yielding robust, structured reds that resonate with Asian palates.

In India, the story is equally compelling. The Sula brand has risen to become one of the country’s largest wineries, demonstrating that Indian wine is appreciated just as much as more traditional labels. Through technical innovation and methodical investment, Asian producers are crafting wines that satisfy domestic demand while gradually positioning themselves as reliable choices for international consumers.

If you thought grapes could not flourish in the tropics, Thailand offers a striking counterpoint. Regions such as Khao Yai and Hua Hin Hills have developed a “resort grape” model, using a double pruning technique to cultivate vines during the dry season instead of summer. This approach encourages steady growth and yields high-quality fruit.

Monsoon Valley Wines stands as a testament to tropical winemaking. Founded in 2001 by entrepreneur Chalerm Yoovidhya, it has firmly established itself on the global wine stage. With vineyards in Hua Hin, Tab Kwang and Chiang Mai, Monsoon Valley produces wines from international varieties including Shiraz, Colombard, Chenin Blanc and Sangiovese.

Monsoon Valley wines, particularly Colombard, provide a distinctive tasting experience shaped by the tropical climate and modern production methods. With an alcohol content around 13 per cent, the wine shows a pale yellow hue and delivers fresh aromas of lemon, green apple, melon and subtle hints of Sauvignon Blanc. It is balanced, slightly acidic, and finishes long and dry, leaving a refreshing impression.

Monsoon Valley Colombard pairs beautifully with hot summer days and Thai cuisine, including papaya salad (Som Tum), grilled meat skewers (Moo Satay), stir-fried seafood with vegetables, green curry, ginger chicken or fruit-based desserts. Its blend of fresh flavours and gentle acidity makes it both a refreshing drink and a natural companion to Thailand’s culinary heritage.

GranMonte, another renowned vineyard in Khao Yai, led by winemaker Nikki Lohitnavy, has successfully cultivated 28 grape varieties, including Syrah, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Verdelho, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Alvarinho and Durif. Uniquely, it is the only vineyard in Thailand to grow Cabernet Sauvignon successfully, a variety typically suited to cooler climates.

By combining modern and traditional techniques, GranMonte produces wines with balanced acidity and distinctive flavours tailored to Thai cuisine. Signature offerings such as Elements, Heritage, Crémant sparkling wine and Vincotto have earned international recognition, including a gold medal at the AWC Vienna, Europe’s largest wine competition.

The expansion of Thailand’s wine industry highlights both the adaptability of grape cultivation to tropical climates and the opportunities for Southeast Asian countries to develop their own wine traditions.

South Korea is long associated with makgeolli and soju, two symbols of its traditional wine culture. Yet regions including Yeongcheon (North Gyeongsang Province) and Yeongdong (North Chungcheongbuk Province) are beginning to cultivate a domestic wine industry. While still small in scale, local producers have experimented with the Campbell Early grape, crafting sweet rosé wines suited to Korean tastes.

The competition between traditional rice wine and modern wine reflects a shift in Korean consumer tastes, moving from purely cultural traditions to a more multi-dimensional experience that fuses East and West. Korea also aims to carve out a niche in the wine industry with high-end, premium “specialty wine” products.

In Vietnam, the story of wine presents intriguing contrasts. While grape cultivation is traditionally associated with the sunny, windy land of Ninh Thuan, Da Lat, with its cool climate all year round, was the first region to produce wine. Brands such as Vang Da Lat and Ladora Winery currently dominate the domestic market. Yet younger producers, including Vang Da Lat Export and Chateau Dalat, are targeting high-end wines, employing oak ageing, temperature control, and carefully selected grape varieties such as Cardinal and Syrah. Vietnamese wines remain light and soft, not as complex as French or Italian labels, but their potential is considerable.

Chateau Dalat, for example, is Vietnam’s first premium wine to meet international standards. Made entirely from grapes grown using high-tech agricultural methods, it has won recognition at international competitions and was served to heads of state at the APEC 2017 Conference. Meanwhile, Vang Dalat Export Red Wine combines Cardinal and Shiraz grapes with Dalat strawberries, producing a rich, balanced tannin profile that pairs beautifully with red meat.

Vietnamese wine is gradually securing a place on the global wine map, thanks to its quality and the blend of tradition with innovative production techniques.

With the recent advances in Asian wine, the question arises: can the continent develop a distinctive terroir comparable to renowned regions like Bourgogne or Rioja? The answer is emerging from growers in Helan Valley (China), the Dalat Plateau (Vietnam), and the hillsides of Yamanashi (Japan).

Industry experts see the potential clearly. According to Jim Boyce, a noted wine writer in China, “Asian wine will not compete on history, but on regional character and climate adaptation.” Decanter magazine has also recognised Silver Heights (Ningxia) as one of the most promising wine estates outside Europe.

Recent studies show that Asian wines, particularly Koshu and tropical varieties, are gaining traction on pairing menus in fine dining establishments across Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore. Their light acidity complements seafood and Asian cuisine, allowing chefs to tell regional stories without adhering to European standards.

Data from Wine Intelligence (2024) indicates that 63 per cent of high-income Asian diners are willing to pay for domestic wines recommended by chefs. This encourages fine dining restaurants to integrate Asian wines creatively and fosters collaboration between producers and chefs. Many initiatives have produced “bespoke” wines, aged for specific restaurants or seasonal menus, turning each glass into an experience connecting diners with the land and the winemaker.

The rise of Asian wine is more than an agricultural trend. It signifies cultural change, a new wave of consumption, and a desire to assert Eastern culinary identity on the international stage. When Yamanashi wine accompanies sashimi in Tokyo, or a bottle of Dalat wine is poured alongside pan-fried beef in a high-end restaurant, it is not simply a matter of taste—it marks a new chapter in the story of Asian wine. In the coming decades, the world may not only celebrate wines from Italy, Spain and France, but also marvel at the distinct flavours emerging from Asia.

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