Cover Tan Guan Zhen and Tan Ban Leong (Photo: Fady Younis)
Tan Guan Zhen and Tan Ban Leong (Photo: Fady Younis)
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Father and son duo Tan Ban Leong and Tan Guan Zhen show that Chinese tea is anything but stuffy
“Chinese tea has been around for millennia, but many still have not explored its taste profiles, the different varieties, and how much enjoyment it can bring,” smiles Tan Ban Leong, the founder of tea gallery Tannin Hill, housed unassumingly along Jalan Sultan Azlan Shah. Inside, the tea bar boasts eight different varieties of teas, each with its profile card depicting flavour notes, nose, and body.
“There are over 3,000 different selections of tea, but especially in Malaysia, many are only familiar with Pu’er or Tieguanyin,” he continues. Tannin Hill was born with the hope of opening its customers’ eyes to the world of Chinese tea, providing a wide selection to taste and explore, allowing everyone to familiarise themselves and build personal preferences.
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However, this did not come without its hurdles. “It is hard to make tea interesting, as people don’t know much about it—we had to find a way to entice both tea enthusiasts and those new to the art,” he adds.
Above The tea bar at Tannin Hill boasts eight varieties of tea
The tea bar at Tannin Hill boasts eight varieties of tea
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Sitting next to his father is Tan Guan Zhen, who also assists in the operations of the tea house. “It is common for people to drop by a café for a cup of coffee, but this does not apply to tea yet,” the younger Tan comments. His memories of tea stem back to his grandparents; during visits, it was something enjoyed after every meal alongside desserts. Tannin Hill aims to be an establishment where people of all ages can come to enjoy afternoon tea with friends and family, and during each visit experience a new type of tea and food pairing.
It was only later in his adult life that Guan Zhen found a passion for the drink after a trip to a tea plantation in Yunnan, China, where Pu’er is grown. “For many, tea isn’t just a commodity or drink, but a way of life,” Guan Zhen says. “If you ever have the chance to stand on a tea hill and see the mountains covered in tea plants, the amount of land and people dedicated to the craft, you will realise its cultural significance.”
Above The older Tan brewing a pot of tea
Above Pu'er tea, with its associated profile card
The older Tan brewing a pot of tea
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Becoming tea purveyors stemmed purely from a passion for the drink. The family began to acquire a significant amount of tea for personal pleasure, forming a relationship with Xiaguan, one of the largest tea companies in China. In 2008, they transitioned into wholesalers.
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Their first brand, Teaspec, was born with the hope to make drinking Chinese tea more convenient through teaware and retail. Designed in-house and made locally, the products have convenience and integration as the main inspiration. “Traditionally, tea comes in tea cakes, which are round discs that are as hard as bricks,” Guan Zhen explains. “Sharp knives are needed to break it, and given the inaccessibility, we tried to bridge that gap with clear instructions and tools that made it easier to enjoy the beverage.”
Above Teaspec's products can be found within Tannin Hill
Above The selection of food served at the tea bar is meant to be eaten alongside tea
Teaspec's products can be found within Tannin Hill
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Teaspec’s tea trays, knives, and tea tumblers can be found across Harrods and Mandarin Oriental in London, and are especially popular among Western and Middle Eastern clients. The company also has its personal blend of tea. However, the family realised that so much of the tea experience involves tasting, and realised it was important to educate to help customers understand its premium teas.
Above Tannin Hill's food selection
Tannin Hill's food selection
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Hence, Tannin Hill was born in 2022. “People come in on a hot day, and we serve them a tea jelly and a cold cup of nitro, which prepares them for the tea to come from the tea bar,” explains Ban Leong. The eight teas on offer range from Pu’er to Da Hong Pau and Qi Lan, and can be sampled with any food order, but the older Tan also has his recommended pairings upon request.
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“The tea selection is arranged by body, from lighter and more fruity to fuller and woodier teas.” For instance, the smoked duck rice bowl pairs well with the Da Hong Pau, while the Tie Guan Yin complements the acai bowl.
Above The eight different teas and their associated tasting notes
The eight different teas and their associated tasting notes
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From brewing and purveying the product to enjoying and learning about it, the family has developed an ecosystem of tea from start to finish. Guan Zhen hopes that the appreciation and understanding of high-quality Chinese tea can be improved in the local market.
“Leaves should be smooth and glossy, and the aroma of the tea should be fresh and clean, but layered with multiple notes, with flavours unfolding as you sip,” he smiles. “With such knowledge, anyone can be a tea master, and I hope I can show people just how convenient it is to drink Chinese tea.”
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Photography: Fady Younis
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
