Cover Affie Adut, Nick Choo, Angel Ng Ji, Matthew Goh, Maria Escobia, and Rohan Matmary at the presidential suite, Four Seasons Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Fady Younis)
Affie Adut, Nick Choo, Angel Ng Ji, Matthew Goh, Maria Escobia, and Rohan Matmary at the presidential suite, Four Seasons Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Fady Younis)
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We speak to Kuala Lumpur’s leading bartenders and bar owners who delve into the subtle nuances of the bartending industry
Why do you go to a bar? Is it to expand your palate, to explore a city’s cocktail culture? Perhaps after a long day, to unwind and forget. When you have no one to talk to, or want to talk to no one? While meals are often eaten in company, the nature of bar visits vary.
A group of friends might be visiting for a birthday. They want to be left alone, aside from a well-timed round of shots; after all, the focus is on the person they are celebrating. Another couple at the bar is on their first date, and they, too, want non-invasive service, the beginning of something new bubbling over a few cocktails as a lubricant for conversation. Beside them sits a married couple that hasn’t had much to talk about recently, hoping a change of scene might help them remember why they fell in love; a few witty comments from the bartender are more than welcome.
Above The six bartenders and bar owners are leading forces in KL’s bar scene, spearheading KL Cocktail Week, a week-long celebration of the city’s bar industry
The six bartenders and bar owners are leading forces in KL’s bar scene, spearheading KL Cocktail Week, a week-long celebration of the city’s bar industry
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To be a bartender is to anticipate before you act, listen before you pour, to calm someone’s worries and hype the next guest up. “He didn’t deserve you,” you tell someone mourning a break up, before bringing a bottle to the celebration in the back. There is no other job that requires such nuanced people skills, to constantly face guests and their baggage, all while creating perfectly balanced drinks before cleaning up a customer’s mess in the bathroom. These trained professionals and storytellers are caretakers of every guest experience.
Above Matthew Goh, co-founder of Penrose, is known for his fun-loving and relaxed personality (some might say too laid-back, but we beg to differ). Goh will be taking the lead on KL Cocktail Week 2026, all while planning his wedding at the same time!
Matthew Goh, co-founder of Penrose, is known for his fun-loving and relaxed personality (some might say too laid-back, but we beg to differ). Goh will be taking the lead on KL Cocktail Week 2026, all while planning his wedding at the same time!
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“Everyone who walks through the door brings a bit of their day with them,” muses Matthew Goh, co-founder of Penrose and Lavantha. As it goes for many in the industry, Goh’s foray into the bar scene was a case of curiosity-turned obsession. He began his career in advertising, but when the opportunity arose to enter the F&B scene, he jumped at it. “We train ourselves to expect—sometimes, this may come in the form of making the right drink to suit a customer, other times, this means knowing when to leave someone alone.” This dance is delicate, and not without mistakes, even when best-intentioned.
Above Rohan Matmary carries himself with grace and an air of professionalism that comes from years of practice. He is also an avid pickleball player, as you might have noticed with the paddle in his grip.
Rohan Matmary carries himself with grace and an air of professionalism that comes from years of practice. He is also an avid pickleball player, as you might have noticed with the paddle in his grip.
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So how is this learned? Are all bartenders natural extroverts? Mostly, it comes with experience. “Bartenders have long mastered the art of being gracious hosts,” reflects Rohan Matmary of Bar Trigona. Rohan began his career as an intern in a hotel bar in India at the ripe age of 17. His knack for pouring cocktails flowed naturally; choosing bartending as a profession was not the hurdle, rather the stereotype of entering a non-conventional industry: “At the time, many saw it as a temporary job, but now times have changed—people now see it as a respected profession and a serious career path.” He compares the bar to a stage, with customers an eager audience: “It is a constant exercise in awareness, patience, and grace.”
Above Few may know that Affie Adut enjoys collecting Pokémon cards, as pictured, during his free time. Some of them are worth quite a bit, and he had his watchful eye on his card folders the entire time.
Few may know that Affie Adut enjoys collecting Pokémon cards, as pictured, during his free time. Some of them are worth quite a bit, and he had his watchful eye on his card folders the entire time.
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Similarly, Affie Adut of B.E.D. adds: “Guests give you cues; the most important thing is to observe, as each needs something different.” Affie’s career began by accident, while he was studying performing arts—after he made a cocktail that was rejected, he found himself tumbling down a rabbit hole, finding ways to improve it. “At the bar, you are part host, part performer, and part friend,” he smiles.
Above Angel Ng Ji is one of Malaysia’s pioneering bartenders. While strong-willed and sassy, she has a heart of gold, and is currently dedicated to raising two adorable children—one of which was a pleasure to have during our shoot.
Angel Ng Ji is one of Malaysia’s pioneering bartenders. While strong-willed and sassy, she has a heart of gold, and is currently dedicated to raising two adorable children—one of which was a pleasure to have during our shoot.
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For some, the extroversion and ease of conversation comes naturally, while others have to put on a show, a character, one might say, bringing out the best version of themselves best equipped to deal with each customer. “She’s chirpily sassy, a walking information guide, and a hype gal that will call you out on your nonsense,” grins Angel Ji of Triptyk, speaking about her customer-facing alter ego. It was research into the history of craft cocktails that solidified her move into this career, which she currently balances with motherhood, a “balance” she reveals is impossible to achieve.
The golden rule she manages customers by is to always stay calm and kind. “We’re not just serving drinks, we’re serving comfort, providing a space for people to let their guard down—it’s not about perfection or performance, but about presence.”
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Above While a trained performer and a professional dancer, Maria Escobia is the most humble and warm person you’ll ever meet, making every guest feel at home at Penrose with her sweet and unassuming demeanour. Escobia is also rarely seen without her trusty laptop.
While a trained performer and a professional dancer, Maria Escobia is the most humble and warm person you’ll ever meet, making every guest feel at home at Penrose with her sweet and unassuming demeanour. Escobia is also rarely seen without her trusty laptop.
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While Penrose’s head bartender Maria Escobia began as a professional performer, her grace behind the bar is no act, just preparation and a strict before-service routine. It was the warmth of the bar community that made her stay in the industry; while being in the limelight comes naturally to her, she believes the bar experience begins long before the first sip: “From the moment someone walks through the front door, hospitality is about making them feel seen and acknowledged.”
Above During any free time he has, Nick Choo is off jet-setting to Hawaii, Lombok, Okinawa, or anywhere that gives him the chance to get some kite surfing time in. The only thing greater than his sense of adventure is his dedication to friends and family.
During any free time he has, Nick Choo is off jet-setting to Hawaii, Lombok, Okinawa, or anywhere that gives him the chance to get some kite surfing time in. The only thing greater than his sense of adventure is his dedication to friends and family.
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As much as a great drinks programme is a necessity, what guests ultimately remember is how they felt during a night at a bar, and the hospitality they were shown. “Drinks are usually a small part of the overall experience memory,” elaborates Nick Choo, the founder of Reka:Bar. Beginning as a bar investor, the vested interest soon resulted in opening a concept that was truly his own. “We meet guests where they are, not where we want them to be, and as a bar, we’re here to feed the soul, every soul,” he concludes.
But how does one deal with unruly customers? The same way: with grace, patience, and the same special touch. “Genuine hospitality is about respect, both for our guests and for the space we create,” says Rohan. Bartending requires some of the best people skills in the world, and there is no one formula. As the saying goes, the drinks get customers in the door, but the hospitality makes them stay.
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Credits
Photography: Fady Younis
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
