How sustainable are plant milks?

Its degree of sustainability becomes apparent when looking into its history. The now-defunct agrochemical firm, Monsanto, was known for its use of genetic modification and was the first to bring genetically modified soybeans to the US in the 1990s. South American rainforests were cleared to make way for Monsanto-patented soybeans, contributing to carbon emissions and habitat loss. As the demand for soy milk and products burgeoned in the US, so did the American production of the bean. It is now the most commonly grown crop in North America. 

Soy milk requires far less water than dairy production; however, its links to deforestation don’t do the milk alternative any favours. Non-GMO and organic soy milks are now stocked on supermarket shelves, so more sustainable counterparts do exist. If this is your plant milk of choice, try sourcing an environmentally friendly carton or make the switch to another dairy substitute.

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It may seem strange and, frankly, off-putting to Malaysians to see lattes crafted with coconut milk but this local staple has become popularised as a plant-based milk alternative in the Western world. Global coffee franchises have begun including coconut milk in their rotation of dairy-free options, much to the dismay of those familiar with it in savoury contexts. Sharing the fate of soy milk, coconut milk can now be found in cartons and tailor-made to the needs of baristas. 

The exportation of coconut products and production in non-tropical regions aren’t exactly eco-friendly processes. Like any industrially cultivated crop, coconut trees that grow beyond the tropics contribute to land clearing and deforestation. If you must use coconut milk, try to stay away from boxed versions made for coffee and instead purchase it from local markets. 

Hemp milk may be one of the hardest to come by, but it is also one of the most sustainable. Hemp production contradicts everything we know about industrial agriculture. Mass production of the crop has been shown to reduce carbon emissions by absorbing it from the atmosphere, foster biodiversity, and increase soil health. It requires no chemical pesticides, maintaining populations of pollinators, and its roots grow deeper than most crops, enhancing soil structure and fertility. 

Unfortunately, the cultivation of hemp is extremely restricted in Malaysia due to the plant’s association with cannabis despite containing no psychoactive substances. Foreign-grown hemp seeds are available locally in the organic sections of supermarkets or health food stores and can be used to make hemp milk at home. Blend hemp seeds with water until smooth and strain, if necessary, before sweetening with honey or maple syrup. 

All milk alternatives are better for the environment than dairy, but almond milk falls short when put to the test against other varieties. The production of a single glass of almond milk requires 61 litres of water. Worst of all, it impacts already dwindling bee populations. Almond crops require extensive pesticide use which pollutes waterways and compromises pollinating insects. A majority of commercial bees in the US are used for almond pollination every spring, with many dying before summer. There are far more sustainable plant milks available on the market, and based on personal experience, almond milk makes for diluted coffees.

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Oat milk comes in second only to hemp milk when considering environmental impacts. Its recent history, however, is shrouded in controversy. Oatly, a globally recognised oat milk brand has friends in environmentally unfriendly places. The company was invested in by Blackstone, a Donald Trump-linked private equity firm with strong ties to deforestation in the Amazon. The brand is also partnered with Amazon.com, selling its oat milk to European consumers via the e-commerce site. Amazon.com’s carbon emissions are among the highest of any company in the world. 

Despite this one brand’s ethically ambiguous relationships, oat milk as a whole proves one of the most environmentally friendly plant milks out there. Oat crops need significantly less water than almond crops or cattle farming and occupy less land. Some oat milk brands have even begun producing powdered oat milk to reduce wasteful packaging, while some opt for recyclable cartons.

If that doesn’t sell you on it, oat milk is also considered the most similar to dairy for its ability to lend espresso-based beverages a subtle sweetness. The milk is slowly but surely making its way into savoury dishes and plant-based desserts. Singaporean brand Oatside publishes monthly recipes including the milk alternative and has launched a line of oat-based ice cream. 

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