Cover Oo Edo Tofu's natural soy-based products (Photo: Oo Edo Tofu)
Oo Edo Tofu's natural soy-based products (Photo: Oo Edo Tofu)
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We speak to Mariko Ejima about the intricate process from soybean to silken tofu
Having moved from Tokyo to Malaysia 13 years ago in search of a better future after the Fukushima-Daiichi disaster, Oo Edo Tofu’s founder, Mariko Ejima, missed one thing most—authentic Japanese soft tofu.
“I have always loved tofu, but ten years ago, when I used to purchase tofu, it would sometimes be spoiled when I opened it,” she recalls. “It is also hard to find organic tofu, or other fermented food, without preservatives here, as these items are usually imported.” At the time, this sparked the idea of making her own tofu, but with two young children to care for, she didn’t have the time.
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When Ejima’s daughters began secondary school, she revisited the idea and established Oo Edo Tofu in November 2023.
I meet the cheery business owner at her tofu factory, and after changing into rubber slippers and tucking my hair into a hairnet for sanitary purposes, she walks me through her operations. “All our equipment and soybeans are imported from Japan,” she explains.
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Two additional staff members work on large metal machinery and boiling non-GMO soybeans. Showing me the raw bean, I am taken aback by how large they are. “They are soaked overnight, then ground and boiled, before the soy milk is squeezed from them,” she says.
After this step, a coagulant is added. “We use natural nigari from the Okinawa ocean as a coagulant,” she proudly smiles. Also known as bittern, this salt solution is formed when salt precipitates from seawater. “Typically, in Malaysia, a chemical coagulant is used, but we ensure our tofu is made naturally,” she says.
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As soy milk is dispensed out of the tap, she scoops it up for me to try. What strikes me is how rich the milk tastes and how it coats my mouth. “This is due to the high-quality soybeans and machinery,” she enthuses.
While Ejima makes the process look straightforward, it is anything but. “Tofu making is a science, and temperature, humidity, and soaking time are important,” she says. “The conditions in Malaysia are different from Japan, so we have had to adapt.”
With her tofu being of such high quality, she recommends eating it as it is, due to the strong soy taste and the smoothness. Furthermore, without the addition of preservatives, it can be enjoyed as a healthy, protein-rich source daily.
Oo Edo Tofu currently supplies to select markets and high-end Japanese restaurants such as Sushi Oribe and Nobu, but Ejima hopes to one day open a café showcasing her premium tofu. “Making tofu is one thing, but we want to be able to tell our story and share how to eat traditional Japanese tofu,” she ends.
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Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
