Julien Pepin Lehalleur, brand education and training director of Hennessy Global
Cover Julien Pepin Lehalleur, brand education and training director of Hennessy Global

We find out from brand education and training director Julien Pepin Lehalleur why cognac's reputation is changing in recent years

Cognac has come a long way from being an old man’s drink. With access to more information online, imbibers are finding out that it’s such a versatile drink that you can have day or night—neat, iced or mixed. The fact that the cognac market is growing across the globe, especially in Asia, has led Moët Hennesy to create the role of brand education and training director a few years ago, with the aim of spreading the gospel about this exquisite brown spirit.

Taking on the position is Julien Pepin Lehalleur, formerly of Ruinart and House of Krug. While it seems like Lehalleur’s first love was champagnes and wines (he was the president of his business school’s wine student club in 1996), he tells us that it is actually cognac. “I had my first internship with Hennessy even before I got elected president,” he muses. During those three months of working at the sales boutique in Cognac, he was exposed to the many ways you can drink it. “I wasn’t aware that you could drink it with Indian tonic water, sparkling water or Coke,” he shares, which was a revelation for him at that time.

That fascination with cognacs has never left him since those fruitful few months in Cognac. And 22 years after his internship, he has found himself at Moët Hennessy again with a new role, and sharing more about his beloved drink.

On his recent visit to Singapore, we sit down with him (with a glass of cognac, of course) to find out how the reputation of cognac is slowly changing and what’s the best way to appreciate it.

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What was the perception of cognacs in the past??

Julien Pepin Lehalleur (JPL): In France and other mature markets, the perception of cognac before was often a grandpa’s drink. Painting a vivid picture: a 50-plus-year-old man smoking a cigar and drinking cognac at night in a balloon glass. He’s sitting in an armchair by the chimney with his golden retriever, and it’s snowing outside.

If people keep seeing cognac this way, they will never drink it. But if you go to the US, Africa or the UK, cognac is drunk in moments of joy. It’s a spirit that people can drink day or night and in many ways.

Why do you think this mindset is starting to change in recent years?

JPL: The generation has more access to information online. They want to know more and understand what they drink, instead of copying their parents’ drink of choice. People nowadays are drinking less but drinking better.

Tell us why there is a need for a brand education and training director at Moët Hennessy.

JPL: The world of spirits is growing, so it’s our long-term vision to educate consumers about our luxury products: VS, VSOP, XO and Hennessy Paradis. For the price they pay, they need to understand the true value behind them… it’s not just marketing.

I want people to understand that the price they are paying is worth it, when you have eaux de vie that are much older than most whiskies on the planet. The minimum age is 25 years old, but the age goes way beyond that.

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What makes Hennessy Cognac special?

JPL: Its heritage and craftsmanship. What makes Hennessy Cognac so unique is its founder—Richard Hennessy. He was a real pioneer in his time, and it was his long-term vision to never compromise on quality. Until today, we say no to many things because they are not good enough. When we have a shortage of eaux de vie to make cognac, it’s tempting to find those with lesser quality—but we never do that.

It's worth noting, too, that for eight generations, the cognac house has been in the hands of the Hennessy family (who founded the house in 1765) as well as the Fillioux family, who has been our master blenders for 250 years. We owe our savoir-faire to them.

Hennessy Cognac also coined the term, XO. Could you tell us more about that?

JPL: In 1870, Maurice Hennessy created it with his master blender to gift to his friends and family. It was so successful that it became a category of cognac; now, it has become a symbol of aged spirit. We have XO rums, XO armagnac and XO calvados. Even China created its XO sauce, which means superior sauce or a sign of luxury.

Tatler Asia
Above Hennessy Paradis

How does Hennessy look to the future while keeping to tradition?

JPL: When it comes to forward-thinking, the best example is our tasting committee which gathers at 11 am every day to sample 60 to 70 eaux de vie. We have a huge reserve of eaux de vie because when Hennessy invented XO 150 years ago, the house already had the mindset to set aside some for ageing.

When they take a barrel, they need to plan 100 years ahead and think of what stock they want to leave to the next generation. Their duty is to leave the same quality of eaux de vie—if not better.

How is the thirst for cognacs like in Asia and Singapore?

JPL: Singapore is a small market in terms of volume, but not in terms of value because it’s a high-end market. It’s the same for the whole of Asia, where people are willing to spend if they understand the significance behind it.

We have VS and VSOP, which are younger, and then we have XO which is quite an aged spirit. Then we have our top-shelf Hennessy Paradis, which has a small and niche market. Paradis is universal.. everyone falls in love with it. If you don’t drink cognac and you try Paradis, it will be very hard to drink anything else. It’s an amazing cognac, and it’s my favourite.

How do you best enjoy cognac?

JPL: There is no right or wrong answer because cognac is very versatile… you can drink it neat, on ice or in cocktails.

If you could drink cognac with anyone, who would it be and why?

JPL: I would like to share it with my late grandfather. He was the one who introduced me to cognac when I was a kid. He wrote memoirs in the 1970s about his time as an admiral in the French navy. He said that he drank a glass of cognac with general Charles de Gaulle at The Connaught Hotel in London. That’s really the magic of cognac.

Credits

Images  

Benny Loh

Grooming  

Benedict Choo

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