Cover Restaurateur Bien Nguyen’s wealth of experience spans many renowned restaurants before he returned to Vietnam to establish Xu Restaurant Lounge, a pioneering establishment in the high-end dining sector nearly 20 years ago.
Restaurateur Bien Nguyen’s wealth of experience spans many renowned restaurants before he returned to Vietnam to establish Xu Restaurant Lounge, a pioneering establishment in the high-end dining sector nearly 20 years ago.
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A conversation on ‘Quiet Luxury in Cuisine’ with Bien Nguyen, Restaurateur and Founder of CHC Hospitality
Growing up in a family with a strong culinary tradition, with a father who was a restaurant manager, Bien Nguyen’s entrance into the hospitality industry seemed almost inevitable. He was introduced to the world of restaurants and bars from the age of seven, taking on his first official role at 16 in an Australian restaurant. By 22, he had already opened his first restaurant, later transferring everything to his partner before returning to Vietnam at 25 to establish Xu Restaurant Lounge. This high-end Vietnamese restaurant, which debuted in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, marked the beginning of his mission to elevate Vietnamese cuisine.
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It’s difficult to pin down Bien Nguyen with a single label. Chef? He’s certainly passed the kitchen test and still cooks occasionally for friends. “I cook well, but not exceptionally,” he says. “I have a great deal of respect for chefs, so I avoid being too formal. I prefer to call myself a cook.” Bartender? He can mix drinks, and not just that—he has the knack for creating an engaging and lively bar atmosphere. But ‘bartender’ doesn’t quite capture the essence of who he is. Perhaps the most fitting title would be “restaurateur with a profound love for food.” That’s the key to understanding why he returned to Vietnam nearly 20 years ago, bringing with him a high-end dining model that was unheard of at the time, and has since tirelessly championed the cause of Vietnamese cuisine.
Being a trailblazer can be a lonely endeavour, but Bien Nguyen embraces his individuality, finding joy in the solitude. “I always have mentors and friends who show up when I stumble. They help me learn invaluable lessons that keep me moving forward.”
Part 1 - The Beginning
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“My experience working at Highlight 33, a family-run French restaurant, when I was about 15 or 16, is one of the reasons I fell in love with this industry. The couple who owned the restaurant recognised potential in me and gave me the chance to learn the ropes. They taught me about passion for the profession and introduced me to the world of fine wines and champagnes. I was thrilled to take on tasks that most 16-year-olds wouldn’t normally be given, like managing inventory and contributing to menu planning. My first real success came at 20 when I managed my own restaurant. I believe I possess natural leadership qualities, a sense of responsibility, and a trustworthy nature. When a customer walks in with a frown, I will do everything I can to make them smile. That’s the most captivating part of this industry: understanding the needs of the person in front of me…” Bien Nguyen begins the conversation on this note.
In your opinion, what defines the game of cuisine—business, numbers, and strategy, or creativity, artistry, and passion?
I was an artist and a dreamer. When I ran a restaurant in Australia, my partner handled the business side, leaving me free to focus on operations and creativity. When I returned to Vietnam, I was fuelled by the same spirit, eager to introduce a pioneering culinary concept ahead of its time. While some customers applauded the impeccable service, others balked at the prices. My artistic ego flared: “Why not come back tomorrow? Because tomorrow, I’ll raise the price!” It was an arrogant stance that nearly bankrupted me in 2009. That was when I realised that passion alone isn’t enough—understanding business is what allows passion to survive. A great product is essential, but so is knowing your audience. Otherwise, passion is just a formula for bankruptcy.
What are your thoughts on timing? When Vietnamese fine dining was still in its infancy, you launched five-star establishments. Were you ever concerned that being ahead of the curve might lead to failure? What gave you confidence in your timing?
I simply trusted my instincts. I returned to Vietnam with a vision—to elevate the market and create something of value. Xu Restaurant Lounge was designed to meet international standards, and we achieved that. At the time, no restaurant in Vietnam had an overseas design team or invested so heavily in both its kitchen and interiors. It was like a five-star hotel! I even brought in three chefs from the US. The product was excellent, but commercially, we were ahead of the market’s demand. Looking back, I was half naive, half too proud—but I learned my lesson quickly.
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Among your many culinary ventures, which are you most proud of?
Xu Restaurant Lounge. Not only has it remained a fixture for nearly 20 years, but it also introduced Vietnam to the concept of high-end Vietnamese dining. When Xu was on the verge of closing, I didn’t see it as a failure. We learned invaluable lessons and shared our knowledge with the wider Vietnamese community. I have always been proud to call myself Vietnamese, despite being born and raised in Australia, and I take great pride in contributing to the evolution of Vietnam’s F&B industry.
After so many highs and lows, how do you now view success and failure in the F&B industry?
Failure will always outnumber success, but if you learn from it, that’s the greatest reward. The key is perseverance—keeping your passion alive. There will be moments of crushing failure, but as long as you grow from them and don’t lose your drive, you will find a way forward. Fine dining, in particular, demands relentless passion. It always begins with enthusiasm, until it is refined into a structured business.
You’ve spoken about integrating into the F&B community to foster collaboration rather than competition, creating a strong foundation for collective growth. Can you elaborate? Do you still believe this approach is relevant, given today’s challenges in the industry?
I was raised to value good relationships with my ‘neighbours.’ If the restaurant next door is thriving while ours struggles, then we are doing something wrong. And if we are succeeding, we should find ways to collaborate and uplift the community. In 2013, I founded Nosh – Food Week Saigon, an initiative bringing together chefs, restaurateurs, and caterers to cook, share, and celebrate our craft for a week. It was a non-profit event, not designed for customers, but if they wished to join, we welcomed them with the best experience possible.
With the increasing trend of chef collaborations, do you feel disappointed that customers may remember later events but remain unaware of Nosh – FWS?
Bringing chefs together on a single menu is not a novel idea. In Vietnam, I was one of the first to introduce this concept through Nosh. But whether or not people recognise Nosh – FWS doesn’t concern me. If other events gain greater recognition, that’s perfectly fine—we are all contributing to a broader, positive impact on the F&B industry.
When we came close to closing Xu, I didn’t see it as a failure—rather, it was a valuable learning experience.
You have mentioned successful global models such as the Nobu restaurant group, Hakkasan, and establishments led by renowned chefs like Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver. Do you have ambitions to build an empire of that scale?
Creating an international F&B group has long been my dream, but achieving it requires careful preparation. When I explored London as a potential market, I submitted a project proposal to landlords describing my vision: “A Hakkasan-style restaurant, using Vietnamese ingredients at an accessible price point.” The response was overwhelming, and I received multiple site-viewing requests. But before expanding internationally, I knew I had to refine the system, enhance operations, and elevate certain restaurants to ensure we were fully prepared.
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You recently became the new owner of Quince Saigon and Bangkok, yet you made the decision to close the Bangkok location—a restaurant highly regarded by customers. What led to this move?
Time, value, and revenue were the key factors. I closed the restaurant shortly after acquiring it because I realised it was consuming too much time and energy in an attempt to fix underlying issues. While I could have invested further to turn it around, I preferred to cut my losses and focus on more promising ventures. To me, time is money—and money is time.
Part 2 - Vietnam F&B Market
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What are the biggest differences between Vietnam’s F&B industry today and nearly 20 years ago when you founded CHC? How have you adapted to remain successful in such a volatile market?
After nearly two decades of building and operating different F&B concepts, I have learned that running a restaurant is about far more than simply offering great food. Every detail must be meticulously curated and refined to meet the growing expectations of increasingly discerning customers. This is why I created KUN—a concept that embodies an unparalleled level of customer experience. The focus is on excellence, not perfection—excellence in the quality of the dishes, the presentation, and the ability of the staff to anticipate a guest’s needs before they even ask.
At my core, I am an artist, but as a business owner, I must also understand both the personalities of my kitchen team—with their creativity and sensitivities—and the diverse expectations of my customers. Success lies in bridging these two worlds. If guests misunderstand the nature of a culinary event, it means I haven’t communicated my vision clearly enough. It’s a challenging process, but with time and practice, you learn to refine it.
You once described your management style as straightforward, empathetic, encouraging, patient, and respectful. Straightforwardness seems the easiest trait to develop, but how do you cultivate the others—especially in the fast-paced, high-pressure world of F&B?
I have studied psychology and practised empathy for many years. Over time, I’ve learned that being direct requires a deep understanding—understanding what causes an employee to struggle and knowing how to respond in a way that empowers them. Whether to be straightforward or to show empathy, encouragement, patience, and respect depends on time, experience, and context.
Fine dining is considered a saturated market globally, yet still in its early stages in Vietnam. In this ‘old for some, new for us’ scenario, what can Vietnam do to accelerate its growth?
Vietnam’s F&B industry is evolving at a remarkable pace, far more dynamically than many other countries did during their periods of development. We have an abundance of talented chefs, dedicated professionals, and individuals with passion and perseverance. The potential is immense.
Do you believe Vietnam’s premium F&B sector is currently comprehensive enough? What aspects still need improvement?
There is always room for improvement, particularly in service quality. This is not unique to Vietnam; globally, fine dining service is shifting as younger generations and new trends reshape the industry. The experience is becoming more relaxed and approachable, unlike the formal fine dining landscape I first entered. Yet, there are still gaps to be filled—and we will address them together.
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Fine dining is evolving as a new generation and emerging trends reshape the experience.
Should we make healthy comparisons with countries renowned for their fine dining scenes?
Absolutely. Leading markets are far ahead in terms of technical expertise, technology, and industry experience. There is so much to learn. For instance, many of the world’s most successful restaurants implement detailed customer profiling (SOPs). They track everything—the purpose of a guest’s visit, length of stay, personality, mood, preferences—allowing them to create near-perfect experiences. Eleven Madison Park in New York excels in this, and we have applied similar principles at Xu Restaurant Lounge for years.
More than 20 years in the industry have brought effort, victories, and lessons. Over the next 20 years, what will you need to achieve your vision of an international F&B group?
I need like-minded individuals to take the concept global. Many of my team members have been with me and Xu Restaurant Lounge for nearly 20 years. Moving forward, I must define my goals clearly, identify gaps, plan the next steps—and wait for the right moment. I won’t cast a wide net in search of talent because, in eight out of ten cases, the fit won’t be right. I believe in serendipitous encounters and organic relationships. While I wait for the universe to bring me the right people, I’ll continue focusing on what I do best.
This article was adapted from the original feature in Tatler Vietnam, December 2024 edition.
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Credits
Photography: Rabhuu Studio
