Gather Round The Fire

The method of cooking also encapsulates the camaraderie and sense of belonging around a campfire. “This is synonymous with Filipino culture, where the fundamental pursuit of our identity is to welcome guests to our home. At Kubo, this is the experience we hope to attain, where guests can gather around the firepit and celebrate the simple things in life in our modern world,” explains Sombero. 

At modern Indian grill Revolver, the dishes, prepared over wood‑fired grill, smoker and tandoor, transport you to the heart of traditional Indian cooking, where spices and ingredients such as stuffed courgette flowers and Australian Margra lamb chops come together in a delicious, heady dance. Revolver’s executive chef Saurabh Udinia enthuses: “It’s a different atmosphere when there’s a wood‑fired grill in the kitchen. It’s a sensory experience, from smell to heat to taste. Meat, for example, doesn’t need to be over spiced or seasoned heavily, as this cooking method already enhances its taste.” 

David Tang, the co‑owner and executive chef of modern Californian restaurant Rosemead, could not agree more. “Wood‑fire cooking has been around since humans discovered fire—you could even say that it’s the oldest cooking method in the world, and every culture has a tradition of cooking with fire,” he says. “Seeing your food being cooked over open flames, and the idea of coming together over a meal that’s kissed by fire, is very appealing on a primal level.” 

Chefs also love that this form of cooking yields myriad flavours. Andrea De Paola, chef-partner of contemporary Italian grill Griglia, highlights: “The high temperature that a charcoal grill can reach gives an additional layer of flavour and smokiness from the wood used for cooking. Cooking over the fire also requires less fat (oil), which makes dishes lighter, allowing the natural flavours of the ingredients to come through.” 

Chef Isaac Tan, who oversees Bedrock Bar & Grill, which has been offering wood‑fired meats since 2008, is amused that the world’s most primitive form of cooking is now trending, but sees its lure for chefs. “We can play around with the flavours by adding different types of wood over coal embers, or other elements such as herb sprigs and hay,” he expounds. For instance, at Bedrock Origin, the restaurant’s second outlet located in Oasia Resort Sentosa, seafood such as dry‑aged barramundi tail and turbot is grilled over applewood. The head of culinary and product innovations at F&B group Commonwealth Concepts points out, though, that wood‑fire cooking stretches chefs technically, due to its unpredictability. “You need that instinct of controlling the flame by adjusting the wood and judging the temperature as you cook,” he says. 

That wood‑fired dishes can be enjoyed in both refined and casual settings only adds to the appeal. Beer nights at Thirty Six Brewlab & Smokehouse are enlivened by toothsome spicy pork belly satay and a simple cauliflower. A quick lunch of prawn and octopus niçoise salad at the newly opened Latin-European bistro Sol & Luna is made special with rescoldo-style potatoes cooked overnight over hot embers and tossed in olive tapenade. 

With so many palatable variations to explore, wood‑fire cooking is likely to remain ablaze on the local dining scene for some time. Sombero says it best: “I feel that cooking with fire symbolises a much‑needed radiance during dark times. It will in some way brighten someone’s day. I strongly believe this cooking style will stay as long as humans exist.” 

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