Christina Rasmussen, chef-0wner of Mallow and ex-forager at Noma
Cover Christina Rasmussen, chef-0wner of Mallow and ex-forager at Noma

Learn how these F&B personalities scour for sustainable produce and what foraging brings to the table

The highly industrialised global food system means modern technology processes food quickly and efficiently, resulting in higher profits and lower food cost. This industrialisation has however created many concerns—including consumer habits and our entire relationship with food. Our diet has become ever more homogenised. And we tend to consume a lot more processed foods containing additives and calories. Meanwhile, other worries like overcrowded conditions and animal diseases in factory farms threaten our food security.

Today, companies like HSBC, whose prevailing ethos is sustainability, are working with top restaurants to promote their sustainable offerings. The One Planet Plate sustainability campaign was launched in Singapore by HSBC and sustainable consultancy Food Made Good Hong Kong this year.

One Planet Plate supports the Singapore Green Plan 2030, and the ‘30 by 30’ goal of producing 30 per cent of our nutritional needs locally by 2030. Among many initiatives to meet this target, Singapore has been ramping up vertical and roof farming—which allows chefs to source for more locally-grown and sustainable ingredients.

Find out how the following chefs source for sustainable produce as well as apply their foraging experience in their own unique ways.

Don’t miss: 14 Most Sustainable Restaurants and Bars in Singapore

Tatler Asia
Above Christina Rasmussen, chef-owner of Mallow and ex-forager at Noma

World-Class Foraging Experience

Christina Rasmussen of Mallow, a bar at Robertson Quay that serves conscious cocktails and plant-based bites, was a chef and forager at Copenhagen’s top restaurant Noma. She joined in 2016 as an intern, and got the role as head forager “by accident”.  For her, foraging journeys mean that you’re guided on what you can eat, where to find an ingredient, how to identify the right one and which has the best quality. It also results in understanding an ecosystem and maintaining its balance.

Tatler Offer: HSBC card members who dine at Mallow from now until August 31 will receive a complimentary drink*.
 
In 2017, prior to Noma’s relocation, the restaurant was closed to the public but certain operations still ran, such as the test kitchen and fermentation lab, so foraging still needed to be done. “This was when I focused on solely learning all the aspects of sourcing, picking, supplying, flavour and application. When Noma reopened in a larger space, the foraging department needed expansion. I found myself in this sweet spot of knowing the procedures of the kitchen but also so much from the foraging aspect that I had a unique position fit to take on the role as their private forager,” Rasmussen says.

It was essential for the foraging team to scour for a high volume of ingredients for a world-class restaurant. “You need to be knowledgeable and resourceful—why do things grow where they do? How do I find more when there’s a drought? Where do I begin to look and not waste time driving hundreds of kilometres?” she shares.

Her job included anticipating seasonality and knowing what can be replaced while maintaining the same flavour profile and getting it in the right amounts. She recalls, “We visited many landscapes: beaches, grasslands, fresh waterways, farms, woods etc. Sometimes I find myself driving close to 450km in one day. In late summer, I would do long road trips to neighbouring countries to get the best quality and sought-after fruits like mulberries from a 400-year-old tree on an island in the Baltic Sea.”

Importance of Foraging

Rasmussen thinks it’s important that chefs respect nature around them. For instance, when chefs go on foraging trips, they get to see the difficulties of spending hours collecting every last tiny wood sorrel in a rainy, chilly forest. “After that experience, the wastage back in the kitchen goes down. They become more conscious, intentional and mindful when using ingredients, and respecting them.” 

Over at Artemis Grill at CapitaGreen, Executive Chef Oliver Hyde agrees that it’s important for chefs to understand and know where food comes from, how it grows, and the conditions needed to grow. He shares, “I have great memories of foraging with my father back home in Norfolk from picking chantarelles, ceps and mushrooms every autumn. In spring we would head to the coast and pick samphire and sea beet.”

Read more: How Singapore’s Top Chefs Are Helping to Solve the Food Wastage Problem

Deeper Connection with Nature

Rasmussen affirms that she has a personal connection with nature. “I have a very strong sense of direction to begin with. I take notes on where I wander ... When you go to the same terrains almost every day, throughout all seasons, year after year, you get to know every mossy hill, sand dune, rose bush and sorrel patch. You get to know the ecosystems almost as a person—what makes them flourish and abundant, or unhappy and wither. This understanding allows you to predict patterns in growth, flavour, reproduction and other specifics which would help me to do my job better but also help their life cycles.”

She recalls one of her experiences in a forest north of Copenhagen that she loved to visit. “It had these massive trunks and tall, large canopies that allowed only the slightest beams of sun shine through. The low laying mist hovered above the moss and ferns. Colonies of ants, wood sorrel, woodruff and other species thrived here.” She’s been there multiple times every season from 2016 until 2020. However, when she arrived one Spring, she found that it was completely ploughed to make room for mountain biking trails. “The once soft, pillowy moss and delicate forest floor was scorched because the sun’s full force could reach the ground. There are constant changes and humans get in the way of nature doing its thing. It again makes you reflect about your consumption, decisions and overall impact, and also choosing wisely,” she says.

Executive Chef John-Paul Fiechtner who helms Kaarla (part of 1-Arden at CapitaSpring) focuses on locally-sourced ingredients and sustainable practices for his Coastal Australian cuisine. Fiechtner was raised on a farm in Queensland. From a young age, he learned to respect the land, its custodians, and nature’s produce.

He says, “Growing up in a rural community, foraging is rooted in daily life—living off the land and taking only what is needed.” He uses this same philosophy at level 51—the address of Kaarla and the Food Forest, the world’s highest urban farm. Fiechtner says, “Whenever you grow, catch, hunt or pick foods, that gives you a deeper connection to that ingredient.” The produce is then treated with respect from how every part is utilised to how it’s cooked.

Tatler Offer: HSBC card members who order the Kaarla Market Menu from now until August 31 will enjoy a 10 per cent discount*.

Tatler Asia
Kaarla's crystal crab, fennel, marjoram, crab butter
Above Kaarla's crystal crab, fennel, marjoram, crab butter

“Foraging” in Singapore

Rasmussen admits that foraging in Singapore is indeed a challenge. “Firstly, it’s illegal, so it’s about being mindful of the law and how to make sure lines aren’t crossed. Using the concept of finding the ingredients in the wild and then sourcing them through local farms is the route we most commonly use. Some of the trips we’ve taken recently also influence our menu.”

When Rasmussen was in Goa recently, a foraging guide took her around and explain the different wild ingredients. She also brought back some infusions, salts and syrups from Europe to include in her menu. “We grow herbs and flowers on the terrace, and incorporate them throughout the menu. We hope we can expand our foraging level in the near future.” 

Some of Rasmussen’s favourites on Mallow’s menu is the green wild peppercorn. “We shave it onto our sambal meringue made of chickpea water. Another is cinnamon leaf which we use in a vinegar brine with king oyster mushrooms.”

For Fiechtner, two wild ingredients that stand out are the local gooseberry and rose native to Singapore. “We use both ingredients extensively in the menu when we can.” The team is attempting to grow the rose in the 1-Arden Food Forest.

He adds that when chefs forage in Singapore, it helps them understand what can be grown locally and how that ties to local culture. “This gives us a good base of plants we know will grow easily in the farm at 1-Arden.” An example of a dish that uses their farm-fresh ingredients is the Closed Loop Salad which comprises 20 different herbs, leaves, flowers and fruits.

In case you missed it: How These Restaurants in Singapore Promote Sustainability With Their Own Gardens

Tatler Asia
Yun Nan's claypot rice
Above Yun Nan's claypot rice
Tatler Asia
Above Yun Nan's hotplate milk

Sourcing for Sustainable Ingredients

Yun Nans is another restaurant that conscientiously sources sustainable ingredients. For instance, the porcini mushrooms used in their signature dishes like stir-fried wild porcini mushrooms with dried chillies. “They are foraged from the highlands on Yunnan. This not only helps to promote sustainability but also provides job opportunities to the natives who harvest the wild mushrooms by hand,” says Reuben Chua, Chief Operating Officer.

Tatler Offer: HSBC card members who dine at any Yun Nans outlet from now until September 30 will enjoy a complimentary pomelo salad with osmanthus dressing*.

Chef Xian Shitong who hails from Yunnan uses fresh fish maw from a local sustainable fish farm for his braised fish maw with porcini mushroom dish. The fish used for the poached seabass in spicy pickled vegetable broth is from the same farm. Chua adds, “This farm uses filtered oxygen-rich ocean water with large swimming spaces for their fish. They are farmed with no hormones and prophylactic use of antibiotics. Fed GMO-free food, with harvest done in a humane way, the fish has better flavour and a clean taste.”

At Artemis Grill, the chef regularly works with farms in Cameron Highlands that supply different types of fresh vegetables, flowers and herbs. The restaurant also procures bronze fennel and nasturtium flowers from Weeds & More, a farm collective. Hyde says, “We try to take as much care as possible when sourcing meat and fish, to make sure the producers are working in sustainable ways. It is an integral part of our brand ethos to consider the environment and planet.


*Please check with restaurants on the current HSBC offers before booking.

Owning an HSBC credit card—made from recycled plastic—is one step towards enjoying life’s privileges more sustainably and building a better food future. Sign up now and receive 35,000 air miles, SG$200 cashback or Samsonite luggage as a welcome gift. You will also get exclusive access to the chefs’ exclusive and sustainable offers.