This story was first published on July 13, 2021, and updated on September 14, 2021.
In 2018, Kenneth Foong left Cure in Singapore where he was head chef to take up an internship at Noma in Copenhagen. Just two years later, he was thrilled to be named Noma’s new head chef. Working closely with renowned chef-owner Rene Redzepi, the team has finally been awarded three Michelin stars at the Michelin Guide Nordic Countries 2021.
“I fell in love with the way the restaurant is run, the culture, the people,” says Foong. “And of course the country of Denmark itself, and Copenhagen, which is just beautiful to live in.”
That said, Singapore still holds a special place in his heart. “I miss my family, my friends, the food,” says Foong, who is looking forward to his next visit. And given the many places he shared with Tatler Dining in which to savour the best that the Lion City has to offer, it’s bound to be a food-and-drink-fuelled trip when he does make it back.
What do you miss most in terms of food and drink when you are away from Singapore?
Kenneth Foong (KF): I miss the variety and the accessibility. Food in Singapore is everywhere and there is so much variety, not just in terms of the types of cuisine but the different genres, from fine dining to local to hawker. And it’s easy to satisfy a craving as Singapore is a small country so nothing is that far away. I really miss waking up at 2 in the morning and going for a local bite somewhere. Unfortunately, that’s not something you can do in Copenhagen.
What is the first dish you eat when you return and where do you go for it?
KF: I go to Hong Kong Street Chun Kee in Alexandra Village and I have the fish noodle soup. A big part of this is nostalgia because I grew up going to that place every Sunday with my family, when we would sit down around the table and talk about life. It has that connection I’m constantly craving, especially when I come home.