Akami, sambal matah, pickled mango
Cover Akami, sambal matah, pickled mango

His "room of bad ideas" will offer “doughmakase”, comprising sushi courses placed atop bread

Trust homegrown chef Bjorn Chef to come up with the most outlandish yet fun dining ideas that somehow… always seems to work. After helming Middle Eastern restaurant Artichoke since 2010, he launched Small’s Test Kitchen two years ago as a place where he served us the most innovative creations such as his “pizza omakase”.

Fast forward to 2022 and he’s ready to surprise us again with his brand-new offering—bread sushi. Regarding this change in culinary concept, Shen explains: “After witnessing the success of Small's, I decided that Small's would be much more than just a pizza omakase joint—it was to be a space of creativity, where I would eventually move on from pizza and start omakase-ing other things that had never been omakase-d before.”

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Botan ebi, dan dan, yuzu kosho
Above Botan ebi, dan dan, yuzu kosho
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Mekajiki, heart of palm, ankimo
Above Mekajiki, heart of palm, ankimo

That said, guests are encouraged to imagine themselves in a modern sushi bar where they will be served raw, cooked and cured seafood placed atop bread instead of the traditional shari. The bread is made from high hydration, long-aged doughs that are cooked using different methods (steamed, deep-fried, grilled over binchotan) to give them different tastes and textures that will complement the seafood.

It’s worth noting that the meal here is more than just “fish on bread”, as Shen took inspiration from the Danish smørrebrød, Basque pintxos and Italian crostini to “give diners that riot of flavours they expect from a meal at Small's”.

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Wasabi pea
Above Wasabi pea

The “doughmakase” menu here comprises three snacks, eight to 10 bread sushi, one hotpot and two sweets. Without giving away the surprise, one of the standouts in the opening menu is the engawa (flounder fin), which is lightly seared and served with stir-fried green papaya salad and charcoal-grilled nugget of bread. Topped with generous shavings of frozen ankimo (monkfish liver) for good measure.

Small’s bread sushi experience will be open for reservation from the week of January 18. Book here.


Small's, 115 King George’s Avenue, 02-02, Singapore, +65 9038 8450, bjornshen.com

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