No new Rolex launch is complete without new interpretations of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, and this year’s renditions don’t disappoint. The ombré dial makes its debut in the Day-Date 40, which is introduced with 18-karat Everose gold. Previously, ombré dials were reserved for Day-Date 36. 

A second version comes in 18-karat white gold with pearlised white mother-of-pearl dial, another first for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date. 

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Mother-of-pearl and diamonds lend a lavish sheen to the latest Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. There are two versions to choose from: white mother-of-pearl with black mother-of-pearl chronograph counters or black mother-of-pearl with white mother-of-pearl counters. 

The former is paired with the Oysterflex overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer while the latter comes with an Oyster bracelet.

Read more: Rolex acquires watch retailer Bucherer in a surprise move

Patek Philippe updates a classic and promotes a limited-edition

One Patek Philippe watch that doesn’t seem to always get the attention it deserves is the Golden Ellipse. Designed according to the harmonious proportions of the golden ratio (a ratio between two numbers that equals approximately 1.618), the elliptical case is one of the most elegant and understated creations from the Swiss manufacture.

This year, Patek Philippe shines a greater spotlight on the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 by adorning it with a specially developed chain-style bracelet that took about 15 years to conceptualise and complete. Thanks to a modern, patented construction, the rose gold bracelet is composed of fine rows of more than 300 links individually mounted by hand that allows the bracelet to gently wraps around the wrist, almost like a second skin. This is paired with a sunburst ebony black dial with rose gold applied baton-style hour markers.

Must read: The extraordinary story of Patek Philippe's Gondolo collection

Following the launch of the limited-edition World Time Reference 5330 in Tokyo last June, Patek Philippe is adding a new variation of the watch to its current collection. Boasting a patented world first, the World Time Reference 5330G-001 indicates the date synchronised with the local time. After setting the selected time zone at 12 o’clock, the central hands indicate the corresponding local time.

This useful function is made possible by the self-winding 240 HU C calibre, which Patek Philippe developed with an innovative patented differential system to manage the local-time date. This can be read on the dial in opaline blue-grey, which appears to be the manufacture’s colour du jour, housed in a 40mm white gold case and paired with a matching blue-grey calfskin strap decorated with a denim motif.

Chopard expands the Alpine Eagle collection and announces a surprise

Chopard’s expansion of the Alpine Eagle collection with the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT (Tech Titanium) is a notable endeavour into the world of ultra-thin timepieces, a sector that demands exceptional engineering precision. Incorporating the L.U.C Calibre 96.17-S, merely 3.30mm in thickness, is an impressive feat, particularly given its openworked architecture that offers an unobstructed view into the micro-mechanical world. This choice not only highlights Chopard’s technical prowess but also serves as an aesthetic function, creating a striking contrast with the robust and lightweight titanium case.

At 41mm, the diameter of the case strikes a balance between contemporary size preferences and classic wearability, making it suitable for a broad audience. Titanium, chosen for its strength and lightness, underscores the model’s suitability for both sporting and everyday activities. However, one might argue that the watch’s sporty demeanour is somewhat at odds with the sophisticated appearance of its exposed movement, presenting a juxtaposition that is not commonly seen in this genre.

Read more: Karl-Friedrich and Karl-Fritz Scheufele on the Alpine Eagle watch

On the other hand, the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is a timepiece that celebrates Chopard’s quarter-century milestone with a dramatic showcase of horological innovation. The L.U.C 98.06-L jumping-hour movement encapsulates the technical mastery Chopard has developed over the years. What sets this model apart is not just the jumping hour complication but its extended eight-day power reserve, facilitated by the Quattro technology’s four barrels. This is a rarity among jumping-hour watches, which typically compromise on power reserve for complication.

The choice of a 40 mm ethical 18k white gold case is conservative yet appropriate, lending the watch a dignified presence suitable for its limited-edition status. The black grand feu enamel dial is another example of Chopard’s dedication to craftsmanship, achieved in-house and enhancing the watch’s collectibility. Furthermore, the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark is a detail that will not go unnoticed by aficionados.

Another highlight from Chopard this year is the L.U.C XPS Forest Green timepiece which embodies the principles of the L.U.C collection, focusing on technical performance and aesthetic elegance. The introduction of the Forest Green dial is a bold choice, a refreshing deviation from traditional dial colours. It enhances the watch’s appeal and positions it well within the current trend towards unique yet understated colour schemes.

The use of Lucent Steel, a sustainably produced alloy trademarked by the house, aligns with the growing demand for ethical sourcing and sustainability in luxury watchmaking. The case size, at 40mm, is ideally suited to a wide range of wrist sizes, making the watch versatile and practical for daily wear. However, the COSC-certified L.U.C 96.12-L calibre is where the watch truly shines, meeting rigorous standards for accuracy. The chronometer certification reinforces Chopard’s commitment to high precision in everyday wearability.

In other news, Chopard has also launched a surprise Mille Miglia model in collaboration with brand ambassador and friend, Jacky Ickx. We will dive into the details of this exciting release another time. 

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