Gisele Bündchenn joins IWC Schaffhausen at the Watches and Wonders on Tuesday, April 9, 2024 in Geneva, Switzerland. (Photo by Harold Cunningham/Getty Images for IWC Schaffhausen)
Cover Gisele Bündchenn joins IWC Schaffhausen at the Watches and Wonders on Tuesday, April 9, 2024 in Geneva, Switzerland. (Photo by Harold Cunningham/Getty Images for IWC Schaffhausen)

Cartier revisits an icon from the past, Piaget sets a new milestone in ultra-thinness, and supermodel Gisele Bündchen makes an appearance

Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest luxury watch trade show, is back from April 9-15 in Geneva. The event is open to the public from April 13-15.

A remarkable lineup of 54 prestigious maisons are present, representing a wide range of watch brands from major players like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin to independent artisans such as Trilobe, Hautlence, and Raymond Weil. 

Tatler GMT reports on the cutting-edge innovations, captivating designs, and unforgettable experiences that will shape the industry this year. For the next four days, we will also bring you the best timepieces and the key insights about them. 

Here are the highlights from Day 1.

Don’t miss: Watches & Wonders 2024: What to know about the watch fair

1. Perpetual calendars

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IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)
Above IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)
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A Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual tourbillon Honeygold Lumen (Photo: courtesy of A Lange & Söhne)
Above A Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual tourbillon Honeygold Lumen (Photo: courtesy of A Lange & Söhne)

Perpetual calendars have taken centre stage at this year’s Watches and Wonders. For example, IWC Schaffhausen’s new Portugieser collection. One important piece is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar with an unprecedented secular accuracy. Its moon phase display precision spans 45 million years, encapsulating the eternal cycle of day and night, now echoed in the collection’s new signature dial colours.

In a parallel unveiling of exceptional craftsmanship, A Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen represents a beacon of innovation, 25 years after the original Datograph’s inception. This limited edition of 50 timepieces is a marvel in the dark, its semi-transparent dial and luminous elements glowing to reveal its sophisticated features. The watch integrates a flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, and a stop-seconds tourbillon mechanism, all housed in the warm sheen of Lange-exclusive honey gold. The masterful execution of the L952.4 manufacture calibre, visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback, underscores the brand’s relentless pursuit of redefining the frontiers of fine watchmaking.

2. Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

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Above The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is available in platinum and in yellow gold

From the Crash to the Tonneau, Cartier’s Privé collection of rare watches are some of the most anticipated launches at Watches and Wonders every year. The creations revisit some of the maison’s most important past designs and reinterprets them for the modern collector. This year, Cartier brings back the Tortue watch from 1912 in two single-button chronograph complication models as well as three “hours/minutes” versions.

The former, known as the Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, features a new movement—the manual winding 1928 MC. At just 4.3mm-thick, the movement is the maison’s thinnest chronograph and is housed in an elegantly proportioned case measuring 43.7 mm x 34.8 mm with a thickness of just 10.2 mm. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph watch is available in a yellow gold version for a more vintage aesthetic as well as a more contemporary platinum one.

3. The tourbillon makes a strong showing

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Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina
Above Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina
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Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
Above Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The tourbillon appears to be a favourite complication this year, with manufactures pushing the creative envelope of possibility with the gravity-cancelling spinner. You’ve just read about A Lange & Söhne’s update of the Datograph with a tourbillon, while Jaeger-LeCoultre impresses with the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual that spins on three axes.

Roger Dubuis puts its expertise in tourbillon front and centre this year with four new novelties including the spectacular Orbis in Machina with a central tourbillon calibre. It features a lower tourbillon cage in titanium and an upper tourbillon cage in mirror-polished cobalt chrome, materials specially chosen to optimise its performance.

Then there is Piaget, who is celebrating its 150th anniversary with an Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon that pushes the ultra-thin concept to its limits by incorporating a flying tourbillon in a case that measures a mere 2mm in height!

4. Gisele Bündchen visits IWC Schaffhausen booth

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Gisele Bündchen joins IWC Schaffhausen at the Watches and Wonders on Tuesday, April 9, 2024 in Geneva, Switzerland. (Photo by Harold Cunningham/Getty Images for IWC Schaffhausen)
Above Gisele Bündchen joins IWC Schaffhausen at the Watches and Wonders on Tuesday, April 9, 2024 in Geneva, Switzerland. (Photo by Harold Cunningham/Getty Images for IWC Schaffhausen)

Celebrating her new Portugieser campaign with IWC, Gisele Bündchen visited the IWC booth themed “A Tribute to Eternity”, where the colours of Silver Moon, Horizon Blue, Dune and Obsidian mimics the journey from dusk till dawn.

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