Cover During its heyday, Universal Genève was known as the couturier of watches for its sophisticated style that attracted creatives like Jeanne Lanvin and Eric Clapton
During its heyday, Universal Genève was known as the couturier of watches for its sophisticated style that attracted creatives like Jeanne Lanvin and Eric Clapton
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A trailblazer in its heyday, Universal Genève makes a spirited return with new renditions of its iconic watches
Ever since Universal Genève was acquired by Breitling in 2023, the watch world has been waiting with bated breath for its return. The wait is finally over.
Founded in 1895 in Le Locle by watchmakers Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret, Universal Genève built a reputation as le couturier de la montre (the couturier of the watch), producing watches of sophisticated style and engineering.
It kicks off its latest chapter with new renditions of the Compax, the Polerouter and the Cabriolet. The new Compax chronograph collection takes its design cues from the Nina RIdnt’s personalised version. The Finnish model famously sat by the trackside with her Compax to time her husband Jochen Rindt’s Grand Prix races.
Read more: Austin Butler and Breitling: Timeless cool meets modern legacy
Above Nina Rindt, wife of racing driver Jochen Rindt, at the British Grand Prix, Silverstone in 1969 (Photo by Leonard Burt/Central Press/Getty Images)
Nina Rindt, wife of racing driver Jochen Rindt, at the British Grand Prix, Silverstone in 1969 (Photo by Leonard Burt/Central Press/Getty Images)
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The reinterpretations feature the same contrasting subdials with 1970s design details like the applied hour index counters and sun-brushed counters. The case measures 39.5mm in steel or 18k rose gold. The steel comes with the panda and reverse panda designs, while the gold features a midnight blue dial with white sub-dials. It is powered by the UG-200 movement with an integrated micro-rotor and column-wheel chronograph.
Rindt wore hers with a Bund cuff—the new Compax nods to that fashionable twist with the bonus of an alligator leather version.
See also: Proving that it is audacious to be square, Bell & Ross reimagines its iconic case
Universal Genève Compax in steel
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Originally conceived for polar route flight in the 1950s, the Polerouter was designed by a very young Gérald Genta. The 21st-century renditions are stylistically faithful to the original, discernible by a textured outer dial ring and signature crosshair design in the central dial.
The main line comprises five references. The 37mm comes in stainless steel with black dial and 18k gold with diamond-set bezel and white mother-of-pearl dial. The 39mm consists of a stainless steel with black dial, a stainless steel with a blue dial, and an 18k rose gold with a brown dial.
Read more: Breitling acquires Gallet—the watch that took flight with the Wright brothers
Above Universal Genève Polerouter in stainless steel with a blue dial
Universal Genève Polerouter in stainless steel with a blue dial
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Above Universal Genève Polerouter in pink gold with mother-of-pearl dial
Universal Genève Polerouter in pink gold with mother-of-pearl dial
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The Art Deco movement, with its clean lines and strong geometry, produced many works that remain as coveted today as they were back then. These include the Universal Genève Cabriolet, a rectangular timepiece with a reversible case, launched in 1933.
For its revival, its role as a functional beauty in motion—the case can be flipped over to protect the dial—was the main consideration. Universal Genève looked to French artist Cassandre and Polish artist Tamara de Lempicka, whose works defined the Art Deco period, to elevate the Cabriolet into artistic expressions. For instance, the numerals are rendered with Cassandre’s Bifur typeface, distinguished by its contrasting line weights.
Above Universal Genève Cabriolet in rose gold set with diamonds with leather strap
Universal Genève Cabriolet in rose gold set with diamonds with leather strap
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Above Universal Genève Cabriolet in rose gold with matching nine-row bracelet
Universal Genève Cabriolet in rose gold with matching nine-row bracelet
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Available in stainless steel or rose gold, the caseback is transparent, which allows one to admire the decorative manual-winding UG-111 calibre. There is also the option to customise the caseback with engraved initials in Bifur typography or a miniature painting.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
