Cover Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
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Richard Mille stuns with its Ferrari collab, while Piaget and Bulgari set new records in ultra-thin watches
The race for the thinnest watch is heating up. In 2022, Richard Mille set a new record for the thinnest mechanical watch with the RM UP-01, its first timepiece with Ferrari since both maisons partnered up in 2021. Measuring 1.75mm in height, it was a technical triumph, it necessitated a complete rethinking of what they knew about watchmaking.
To achieve the required proportion, Richard Mille distributed what could not be stacked in its manual winding movement over a broader surface. The going train, baseplate and skeletonised bridges are crafted of grade 5 titanium. It also warranted a redesign of the barrel and escapement, both patented. To save more space, winding mechanisms are integrated into the titanium case.
Read more: Discover the Richard Mille watch Michelle Yeoh wore to the Oscars 2024
Above Richard Mille UP-01 Ferrari
Richard Mille UP-01 Ferrari
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This year, Richard Mille's record has been broken by Bulgari (incidentally, Richard Mille surpassed Bulgari's record-setting Octo Finissimo Ultra only a few months after the latter was launched).
At 1.7mm, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC measures 0.05mm thinner than RM UP-01, and 1mm thinner than its predecessor. It’s essentially the same watch as the last one, with the reshaping of the bezel, crystal, barrel, case, and dial to shave off the extra height. Limited to 20 pieces, it is also chronometer-certified, which makes it even more extraordinary. The titanium watch comes with a special box for winding and time-setting.
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Above Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
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At Watches and Wonders 2024, Piaget unveiled the thinnest tourbillon watch ever, measuring only 2mm in height. Like Bulgari, the caseback serves as the movement base but the biggest challenge is fitting a flying tourbillon in such a restricted space—a mere 1.49mm in height. More than 70 cases, 15 anchors, and 30 case frames were made before finally arriving at the desired structure. Held in place by the underside, the outer edge is secured by a ceramic ball bearing, which drives its one-minute rotation.
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Above Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
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The next question is how it can supply enough power to the tourbillon. The main solution is an almost systematic use of ball bearing, instead of pivots. This allows the mobile elements to rotate easily, decreasing friction, and opening the possibility of making the watch thinner. The sapphire crystal is also reduced in thickness—0.20mm on the dial side and 0.16mm in the back.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
