Interview with Jean-Christophe Babin of Bulgari on Geneva Watch Days

The CEO of Bulgari also opens up about his role as a founding member of Geneva Watch Days

At Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari presented a pair of Octo Finissimo ultra-thin watches, one an automatic and the other a perpetual calendar, in a new combination of carbon with matte finish and gold.

There are also two sets of secret watches. First is the Serpenti Misteriosi in white gold paved with diamonds, as well as a rose gold version with black lacquer and diamonds. Both watches are powered by Piccolissimo Calibre BVL 100, the smallest mechanical movement in the market.

The second set comprises the Monete Catene with a choice of one face or two faces (Dual Time) that incorporate precious antique coins in the case. These pairs of watches showcase remarkable watch engineering and artisanal craftsmanship, an exquisite pairing we certainly can get behind.

Above Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches in CarbonGold

Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches in CarbonGold

1 / 1

At the event in September, GMT caught up with Jean-Christophe Babin on what lay ahead.

Bulgari unveiled some very bold new products at Geneva Watch Days.

Boldness has been embedded in Bulgari’s DNA since the company was founded in 1884. Sotirio Bulgari [founder of Bulgari] was a Greek immigrant who came to Italy to set up his jewellery workshop in Rome, and his vision was to sell his creations directly to customers rather than through wholesalers.

As CEO of the Bulgari Group, are there any particular trends you're observing in luxury goods beyond watchmaking?

Certain tendencies prior to Covid have since been amplified, for instance, fewer but higher value purchases. Many customers are empowering themselves by paying closer attention to authenticity, craftsmanship, quality, durability, and brand values. As a jeweller, we’re fortunate in that everything we create conveys rarity and value. Everyone knows that precious stones are rare and gold is a safe asset. These are also true of watches.

In addition, the [watch market] is increasingly polarised with new niche brands emerging and rapidly gaining popularity because they bring freshness. At Geneva Watch Days, two-thirds of the 40 brands are relatively unknown to the general public but are already acclaimed, judging by the total of 60 GPHG awards they have earned, including two Aiguille d’Or prizes. The future of Swiss haute horlogerie is resilient but it needs to integrate such new players and their creations.

Above Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi

1 / 1

You have led two brands to win the Aiguilles d’Or top prize at GPHG [first with Tag Heuer with the Mikrogirder, and then with Bulgari for the Octo Finissimo]. You also played an instrumental role in the founding of Geneva Watch Days. What nurtures your entrepreneurial spirit?

I want to keep going because Bulgari is still in its infancy. This may seem paradoxical given how far we’ve come in 10 years, yet I’m convinced that it has a potential that’s hugely underestimated, whether in watchmaking, jewellery or the luxury hotel business. We could quite easily double their turnover; it’s entirely feasible.

We focus our communication on unique points of attraction while differentiating ourselves through a blend of inclusion and diversity. Bulgari expresses itself through personalities as strong and varied as Zendaya, Lisa [Blackpink], Anne Hathaway, and Liu Yife. It’s a brand that speaks to women locally and globally, whatever their cultural background, which is quite unique in the luxury sector.

Geneva Watch Days celebrated its fourth edition this year. Why do you think it has been so successful?

While the presentation of new products is important, the educational aspect of the event is an enormous boost to our understanding of watchmaking. The desire for horology can inspire vocations and attract young talents. Our auction has helped finance a dozen scholarships for the Geneva Watchmaking School.

At Geneva Watch Days, the experience is as important as the commercial aspect, but we’re not in competition with other watchmaking events—rather, we’re complementary to them. I’d like this approach to continue in order to attract other brands so that retailers and journalists can meet as many participants as possible at the event.

This story originally appeared on WorldTempus.