Cover Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
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The mechanical chronograph is no longer the sports complication it once was: no one uses it anymore to measure a lap, a sprint or a race. Its enduring appeal stems from its ability to transform and find new uses among new audiences
More than 200 years sinces its invention in 1816, the chronograph still boasts collectors, flagship models and legendary calibres galore. The secret lies in its ability to adapt to changing eras. At the time of its birth, it was almost exclusively put to professional use: Breitling measured bicycle races, Longines measured distances by telemeter and Tissot measured heart rates.
In the mid-20th century, the public’s expectations changed, and so the chronograph did too. While it is actually hard to say which movement drove the other, several iconic brands and models ushered the chronograph into a new dimension. The Breitling Premier (1943) lived up to its name, laying the foundations of a chronograph remaining technical and accurate, yet more dressy, more urban. It was joined by other models such as those by Universal (Tri-Compax, 1943), Angelus (Chrono-Datolux, 1948) and Eberhard & Co. (Contodat, 1957). These timepieces and the thousands that were to follow gave rise to a whole new category dubbed “sporty-chic”. Eighty years on, this somewhat catch-all classification is starting to be seriously dated—so what are the chronograph’s new faces today?
Above Cyrus Klepcys Dice
Cyrus Klepcys Dice
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Horological chronographs: the purists’ Clan
Well-informed collectors seek the quintessence of the chronograph, as much for its technical aspects as for its original aesthetics, in accordance with its evolution reflecting well-mastered principles. There is no room for extravagance in this territory, but instead reverence for a watchmaking heritage with a carefully preserved spirit. The chronograph is a sign of belonging to an erudite community that is passionate about fine mechanics. The timepieces of choice include Minerva editions occasionally reissued by Montblanc; the latest Angelus and Patek Philippe chronographs; the modernity of a Chronor by Parmigiani; as well as the technicality of an Odysseus by A Lange & Söhne.
Above Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
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Lifestyle chronographs: the chronograph spirit prevails
Its primary chronometric function has given way to the spirit it embodies. Its owner projects himself into an era, a lifestyle, a way of being. One naturally thinks of gentlemen drivers infatuated with the new Tag Heuer Carrera or the Vintage Rally by Frédérique Constant, or even the Elm Burl from Ralph Lauren’s Automotive collection. The fiercely retro Sixties model from Glashütte Original is another example of a key era in watch design.
Above Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph
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Ultramodern chronographs: 100% disruptive!
These are breakthrough chronographs. They own their difference from heritage watchmaking: the past is the past, let’s move forward! They bring something new to the 21st-century men; they are avant-garde timepieces. Favourites include the highly complex Sequential by MB&F; the Dice double chronograph by Cyrus; the Track1 by Singer Reimagined; the Streamliner by H Moser & Cie with central display; and a Hyper Horology version by Roger Dubuis inspired by Lamborghini racing cars.
Above H Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph
H Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph
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All-conquering chronographs: status rules
An expression of conquest, ambition and success, these arethe status chronographs par excellence, worn both for the complication itself and for the values of the brand. Watches like the Cosmograph Daytona by Rolex or Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet boldly assert themselves and are pure conversation pieces.
Above Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
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Passion-driven chronographs: instruments of excellence
Some chronographs are associated with a discipline to which the owner is passionately devoted; prime examples are the Breitling Navitimer, the BR 03-94 from Bell & Ross and the Zenith Pilot for aviation; the RM 70-01 Prost for cycling; the Omega Moonwatch for the conquest of space; and the football-inspired Hublot Big Bang
E Uefa, among others.
City chronographs: watch first, chronograph second
In these models, the chronograph is an additional complication and should remain so. Viewed from this perspective, the design of the watch is paramount and the chronograph must comply with it, blending in with the dial and the case, adding a sporty note that nonetheless takes second place to elegance. Classic specimens include the latest H08 Chronograph by Hermès and the Reverso Chronograph by Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose complication can even be hidden; or the Octo Finissimo Chronograph by Bulgari, where the only things that count are the ultra-thin architecture and the Roman-style design, into which the chronograph merges seamlessly.
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