From François-Paul Journe to Philippe Dufour: Watchmakers reveal their favourite chronographs

Favourite chronograph: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5959P

Why: “This platinum monopusher split-seconds chronograph from Patek Philippe was equipped with a new calibre that was the thinnest in the world at the time. It made this model even more elegant. I love this kind of old-fashioned, attractive and very well-designed chronograph. It won the Complication Watch Prize at the 2005 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.”

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Favourite Chronograph: Omega Speedmaster ’57 Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40.5 mm

Why: “In addition to its beautiful design, this Speedmaster has a co-axial escapement unique to Omega, excellent chronometry and a balance spring resistant to magnetic fields. Its impeccable overall quality is coupled with a very good quality-to-price ratio. The carefully calibrated dimensions, diameter and thickness ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist. Last but not least, I find its manual winding, as well as its date window, rather cool.”

Favourite chronograph: Richard Mille RM 65-01

Why: “This watch has undergone over ten years of accelerated testing. Its 5 Hz movement serves to drive a tenth-of-a-second’s display, and its titanium composition and TPT carbon case ensure a superlight watch suitable for sports wear.”

Favourite chronograph: A Lange & Söhne Triple Split

Why: “While this is an eminently difficult choice, I have opted for the Triple Split chronograph from A Lange & Söhne which I think brilliantly combines the highest technical level with its three split- seconds mechanisms, a striking design derived from the Datograph model, along with an extraordinary level of finishing and attention to detail.”

Favourite chronograph: Tag Heuer Carrera automatic 39mm

Why: “The new version of the iconic Tag Heuer Carrera chronograph, with its glassbox-type crystal enveloping the tachymeter scale, is aesthetically very pleasing. This chronograph linked to the development of motor sports picks up all the original legibility characteristics and magnifies them, making this watch a consistent bestseller since its first high-profile appearance 60 years ago. It caused a sensation with the use of the first automatic chronograph movement and is now equipped with a new in-house-developed calibre distinguished by its remarkable reliability and performance. It brilliantly highlights the revival of this fine brand.”

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Favourite chronograph: MB&F LM Sequential Evo

Why: “I consider that there have been three major developments in the history of wrist chronographs, which have subsequently merely been improved upon: the Valjoux 23 first served as a basis for all the major brands; then came the Cartier monopusher whose movement was made by Jaeger-LeCoultre; and the third invention took the form of the El Primero calibre that Zenith did well to relaunch later. I also found Tag Heuer’s approach to high frequency very interesting. Three-counter chronographs don’t amuse me; I’m still fascinated by 1950s models and monopusher variants. I nonetheless really liked the double chronograph concept designed by Stephen McDonnell for MB&F last year.”

Favourite chronograph: Patek Philippe Split-seconds Chronograph 5959P

Why: “It is a chronograph inspired by a pocket watch, quite traditional in appearance, yet it is a very slim and dainty timepiece, whose exceptional character becomes apparent when you hold it in your hand. Upon turning it over, one is bowled over by the small, compact movement— brimming with horological content such as the split-seconds function and spectacular finishes—that appears to come out of the case.”

Favourite chronograph: Tag Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary

Why: “This watch has all the vintage spirit of the 1960s Heuer chronograph era, with all its modesty and strength. Everything is judged exactly right, whether in terms of proportions, information read-off or the different materials. I also appreciate the overall colours of this very beautiful watch.”

Favourite chronograph: Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday” Ultraman

Why: “Since its creation, I see this watch as having represented the ideal combination of elegance and sport. Its case is so attractive and its dial so nicely balanced as well as graphically accomplished with its modern numerals. It has changed very little since the beginning, even though I had a weakness for its former hands. Any modifications have been relevant, whether to improve the readability or the robustness of the timepiece, such as pusher or crown guards. It is one of the indisputable benchmark sports watch models.”

Favourite chronograph: De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono

Why: “While I have always had a preference for monopusher chronographs, this one is just a magnificent stylistic success embodying a perfect blend of modernism and classicism. I also think its movement is superb.”

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Favourite chronograph: Seiko Spacewalk Spring Drive SPS005

Why: “I like everything about this watch: firstly the aesthetics of its case, especially the limited series with the titanium bezel, but also the very pure dial and the graphic design of the hands, as well as a magnificent movement with attractive finishes. It also represents a beautiful story because it was worn by [Richard Garriot,] one of the first space tourists, an American entrepreneur.”

Favourite Chronograph: A Lange & Söhne Datograph

Why: “During the rebirth of A Lange & Söhne at Baselworld, I was delighted to discover the Datograph (Calibre L951.1./ Ref 403.031). First of all, I was immediately impressed by the movement displayed in the showcase. I said: ‘Wow, what a beauty!’ and then had the immense pleasure of actually holding it. I was thrilled by the precision of the functions and the lightness of the pushers. When I was able to explore the aesthetics and complexity of the movement under a magnifying glass, the perfect finishing of all the elements jumped out at me, just like a 3D effect.

I was so impressed by this movement with its high added value stemming from the hand craftsmanship it involves that it became the first new watch I bought for myself. Making a flyback chronograph with an instantaneous minutes counter was the right choice. Its legibility, clarity, purity... In my humble opinion, this watch is a pure masterpiece.”

This story was originally published on worldtempus.com

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