Beyond the past with the Santos de Cartier Chronograph

Inside beats the in-house 1904-CH MC mechanical movement with automatic winding, whose designation is a proud nod to the original model’s launch year. It has been part of the family for well over a decade, and for good reason. It uses a column wheel and vertical clutch, making for reliable (and satisfying) operation of the pushers.

The top button stops and starts the chronograph, while the bottom resets it. It is also worth noting that their position creates a rather beautiful image of symmetry with the square case. Lastly, the movement runs at 28,800vph, carries 35 jewels and offers a 47-hour power reserve, while the watch is water resistant to 100 metres.

The dial features alternating satin and sunray finishes, creating considerable visual appeal that matches the indices. There are three counters: the seconds at the six, the minutes at the three and the hours at the nine. In both the two-tone and the gold references, these are all bordered by a ring flashed in yellow gold; it is tone-matched in rhodium for the steel version. The black sword-shaped hands are coated with Super-Luminova®, maintaining clarity and legibility under varying light conditions.

The watch bracelet is treated with the same reverence, of which a certain Brazilian pilot would be proud. The Smart LinkTM system allows the strap to be adjusted on the fly without any tools, while the QuickSwitchTM system allows it to be interchanged with the supplied, secondary black rubber strap or semi-matte dark grey alligator leather starp. Through and through, the latest editions of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph carry all the emblematic codes of the Maison. An iconic silhouette, a reliable movement and a distinctly mechanical touch, worthy of recording impressive feats of speed.

Remove the chronograph from the Santos de Cartier and you’re left with a very classic and recognisable dial. If you strip away the indices as well, you’ll have an exquisite minimalist watch. The Santos de Cartier collection also received two new varnish monodials: one in burgundy and one in slate grey. The burgundy dial model is equipped with a high autonomy quartz movement, while the slate grey dial model features the Manufacture 1847 MC automatic winding mechanical movement.

Let’s start with the burgundy dial, available on the small model. It holds a velvety, captivating quality difficult to ignore, especially when paired with the gold-toned bezel and the steel screws and bracelet. This gives it a red-carpet feel, with the only other elements being the similarly toned hands (there are no seconds here!) and the Cartier lettermarking.

If one would prefer a full-red look, it also comes in a semi-matte burgundy alligator strap for a more tonal appearance. The slate grey in medium may prompt some unavoidable comparisons to the Manufacture’s Carée “ghost” dial. Whether intentional or not, it still conveys that same measure of restraint, though considerably more so than the burgundy. Everything is in grey, save for the blue heptagonal spinel.

Watches and Wonders 2026 was a very busy time for Cartier. The new Santos de Cartier Chronograph is one thing, but the Santos-Dumont line also received its own generous expansion with three new models. The familiar design codes of the Santos-Dumont are still there, exactly where they should be: the crown, the visible screws and the blue cabochon. Fortunately, the Maison has paired them with a new, flexible metal bracelet, derived from its made-to-measure bracelets of the Twenties. This addition alone helped it become a heavy crowd favourite on the floor in Geneva.

Made up of 15 rows and a total of 394 1.15mm links, this new bracelet wraps comfortably and elegantly around the wrist. These individual elements are all machined, finished and assembled in-house at Cartier, then attached to the case and clasp. It adds a great measure of dressy refinement and sublime comfort to the watch—proof of what a simple strap change can do.

Even without a statement or explicit announcement from the Manufacture, the standout is undoubtedly the LM-sized Santos-Dumont watch in yellow gold and with an obsidian dial, with an impression that borders on seductive. The polished volcanic stone is sourced from Mexico, and its iridescent reflections come from tiny air bubbles trapped within. Each watch is therefore unique, adding a layer of exclusivity to the piece. To say its cutting is difficult would be an understatement: at just 0.3mm in depth, its delicacy is comparable to glass, requiring great care and precision for Cartier’s craftsmen. It certainly helps to have a jeweller’s pedigree. The hands and appliques are rendered to match the gold case, creating a two-tone look that is easy on the eyes.

But we must not forget about its sister references: the platinum (denoted by its ruby red cabochon crown) and yellow-gold models. Both of their dials feature a classic satin and sunray finish with interchangeable bracelets. All three are powered by the hand-wound 430 MC mechanical movement.

While Alberto Santos-Dumont was shattering speed records in the sky, he could have hardly predicted the breadth of his influence beyond aviation. Cartier and the Santos family of watches continue to uphold the very spirit of the aviator of a bygone era. It is one of innovation and daring that, even over a century later, continues to hold a captive audience.

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