Frédéric Arnault of Tag Heuer on reinventing the Carrera Chronograph, incorporating lab-grown diamonds and reviving the brand’s legendary status

On the occasion of the launch of the Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph, which reimagines the brand’s famous ‘success’ gold watch, the new CEO of LVMH Watches speaks to Tatler about remaking an icon

On a misty October evening, guests showed up at the site of Beijing’s Hanlin Academy, an elite scholarly institution established in the eighth century, during the Tang dynasty. “It was a starting place for many successful figures in Chinese history,” says Frédéric Arnault, CEO of Tag Heuer since 2020, appearing fresh and energised despite his busy schedule, which included tours of cities across China and press interviews ahead of the event. “It is the perfect location for [showcasing] the new ‘success’ watch,” he adds, referring to the Carrera gold watch that originated in 1971.

The Carrera Chronograph earned its “success” nickname back in 1971, when Jack Heuer, the great-grandson of the brand’s founder, decided to gift Ferrari F1 drivers gold timepieces as a gesture of camaraderie. To mark the 60th anniversary of the iconic timepiece, Tag Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph, which reinforces the brand’s enduring association with car racing and aligns with Arnault’s strategy of establishing Tag Heuer in the realm of haute horology.

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Three years into his tenure as CEO of the 163-year-old watch brand, Arnault has proven his bold vision despite his youth. The 28-year-old’s noteworthy efforts include a strong focus on e-commerce, the successful launch of Tag Heuer’s first connected watch, a renewed emphasis on car racing, and the attention-grabbing move of securing Ryan Gosling as the brand ambassador. “Ryan Gosling has not entered into partnerships with any brands, despite his global success,” says Arnault. “With us, he is actively involved in the creative process of every campaign, from concept to visual expression.” This is evident in the multiple behind-the-scenes videos, where Gosling actively participates in the creative process and conversations. “It felt only fitting for someone who truly aligns with our vision to be part of our brand, rather than merely wearing the products.”

Above Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph (Photo: courtesy of Tag Heuer)

Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph (Photo: courtesy of Tag Heuer)

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One of the campaigns that Arnault is particularly proud of is the short film The Race Never Stops that the brand released earlier this year. Featuring Gosling, it serves as a tribute to Carrera’s heroic spirit. “Tag Heuer is a brand that knows the significance of branding, being the first to sponsor the Olympics in the 1920s and race car events in the 1960s,” says Arnault. “The short film created with Ryan Gosling is undoubtedly one of the most inspiring and creative campaigns ever done in the watch industry.”

However, Arnault is well aware that bringing Tag Heuer into the world of high watchmaking requires more than just successful campaigns. When he arrived at Tag Heuer in 2017, the brand had just launched its most important in-house movement to date, the Heuer 02. With an 80-hour power reserve, the movement was a giant step forward in elevating the Carrera collection, positioning it more competitively among other watchmakers’ releases. The newly upgraded version, the TH20-00, was introduced in March this year, with an extended warranty from two to five years, which is an impressive leap in durability. The noise of the calibre had been reduced significantly, and a sleek new look that echoed the Tag Heuer logo is seen on all upcoming collections.

The refocus on advancing in-house movements gave rise to another groundbreaking creation: the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, created for the Only Watch auction this year. As Tag Heuer’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, it further solidifies the brand’s reputation for excellence in sport and performance timepieces. “Returning to the haute horology segment, we believe, is entirely legitimate for us,” says Arnault. “We possess a history and heritage of innovation, and our connection with sports enables us to foster creativity.”

Perhaps the most compelling testament to Tag Heuer’s commitment to innovation was the introduction of the Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde earlier this year. By adorning the iconic design with lab-grown diamonds, the manufacture has embraced a territory that remains taboo for many high-end watch brands. The distinct and unconventional laser cuts of the diamonds also result in a unique radiance. “Today, we have yet to achieve the same intensity and consistency for every colour [of the diamond]. It is a process that takes time. But we are among the pioneers in exploring lab-grown diamonds and remain at the forefront of innovation,” Arnault explains.

With the new Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph—crafted with an 18K 3N yellow gold case and equipped with the Heuer 02 TH20-00 movement—strapped to his wrist, Arnault is more confident than ever in his goal of reviving the brand’s legendary status. “We have a five-year roadmap, with each year featuring an exciting novelty launch,” he says. “We revisited our entire collection, treating each piece as an icon. The new ‘success’ watch is just one step towards reigniting the iconic image of Tag Heuer in today’s world.”