Cover Audemars Piguet RD#5’s Calibre 8100
Audemars Piguet RD#5’s Calibre 8100
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We look back at some of the significant watch innovations in the past year
In 2025, these watch maisons surpassed expectations with truly superlative innovations.
Rolex Dynapulse escapement
The Dynapulse escapement, part of the new Calibre 7135, represents a subtle yet transformative refinement in mechanical watchmaking. Rather than reinventing the wheel, it rethinks energy transfer from mainspring to oscillator, improving efficiency, stability, and precision. The result is a movement that combines high-frequency accuracy with practical durability, marking a quiet revolution in escapement design, underscoring Rolex’s ongoing pursuit of precision and resilience. The mechanism made its debut in the Land-Dweller watch, an entirely new model unveiled during Watches and Wonders 2025. More details and the role of the escapement here.
Read more: Rolex Dynapulse and the power of the escapement
Above The Rolex Dynapulse escapement
The Rolex Dynapulse escapement
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Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie
Speaking of innovations, the Blancpain Grand Double Sonnerie stole the spotlight with a world’s first: a wristwatch that plays two distinct melodies. Alongside the classic Westminster chime, it features a bespoke four-note composition by Kiss’ Eric Singer. A simple push of a button lets the wearer switch between chimes, making this double-melody grand sonnerie one of the year’s most technically and artistically daring achievements. Discover more here.
See also: Blancpain reiterates its environmental commitment with the limited-edition Fifty Fathoms
Above The Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie with four hammers
The Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie with four hammers
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Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari pushes ultra-thin watchmaking to its limit with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon—the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon at just 1.85mm, showcasing extreme skeletonisation without sacrificing performance or style. Discover more here.
Read more: MB&F reimagines Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti
Above Bvlgari‘s thinnest tourbillon
Bvlgari‘s thinnest tourbillon
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5
The RD#5 brings a first-ever flying tourbillon–flyback chronograph combo to the iconic Royal Oak “Jumbo” watch, powered by the ultra-slim Calibre 8100 developed over five years. Its breakthrough pushers cut travel to 0.3mm and force to 300g, delivering an exceptionally smooth, effortless chronograph experience. Discover more here.
See also: Audemars Piguet marks 150th year: A new perpetual calendar movement with an all-in-one crown
Above The Audemars Piguet RD#5
The Audemars Piguet RD#5
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Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air]
Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [Air] sets a new benchmark as the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch—just 52g with strap—thanks to the ultra-skeletonised UN-374 calibre. Built from titanium and reinforced with triangle-shaped bridges, the movement is 80% air yet tough enough to withstand 5,000g of impact.
Above Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air] is the lightest mechanical dive watch
Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air] is the lightest mechanical dive watch
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Grand Seiko Spring Dive Ultra Fine Accuracy
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 earns the Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.) label with an extraordinary annual precision of ±20 seconds—the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch ever made.
Above Grand Seiko Calibre 9RB2 Ultra Fine Accuracy, the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch movement
Grand Seiko Calibre 9RB2 Ultra Fine Accuracy, the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch movement
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
