Cover The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 draws inspiration from the patented Elux Panerai invention once used by the Italian Navy (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 draws inspiration from the patented Elux Panerai invention once used by the Italian Navy (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
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As the Research and Development Director at Panerai, Anthony Serpry is at the forefront of shaping the future of one of the industry’s most distinctive and storied brands
Panerai is perhaps best known for its strong military heritage and instantly recognisable aesthetic. Appreciable even from far away, the brand’s large, cushion-shaped cases, patented crown-protecting devices and minimalistic dials with large Arabic numerals have all become iconic design signatures, captivating a bevy of fans known as the ‘Paneristi’. Dive deeper into their fascination, however, and you’ll find that the watchmaker’s pioneering work in materials and movements is inextricable from the allure.
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Earlier this year, the brand notably unveiled the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800—the culmination of years of research at Panerai’s Neuchâtel manufacture, drawing from the historic Elux Panerai invention used by the Italian Navy. The new PAM01800 boasts on-demand lighting, a four-patent system, water resistance of around 500 metres and a 30-minute power light feature, all within a 49mm case. It is the latest to come out of the brand’s Laboratorio di Idee or LAB-ID programme, which continually challenges the Panerai team to push the boundaries of what’s possible.
Above Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
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This limited-edition novelty, along with the many robust timepieces among Panerai’s collections, is a testament to the dedicated efforts of a department now led by Anthony Serpry, the brand’s Research and Development (R&D) Director. With a background in physics and engineering, Serpry naturally found his technical expertise aligned with the manufacture’s innovative spirit.
In the following conversation with Tatler GMT, he tells us about their constant exploration of materials to enhance the durability, performance and visual identity of Panerai watches, as well as the process behind creating the groundbreaking Elux LAB-ID.
What does the market look for in a luxury watch nowadays?
There’s not one answer; when you look at the market today, there’s a variety of brands and styles. But I think what’s most important now, and also what we discuss with clients and collectors on the occasions that we get to host them at the manufacture or meet them at events, is staying true to the origin of the brand, especially for Panerai because we have this very specific history.
When we develop a new product, it’s vital that we reflect what Panerai has stood for since the beginning— [which are] watches made for tough conditions and in line with the aesthetic codes on which the brand was developed. Even though we push innovation quite a lot, we always strive to keep these core values.
The new Submersible Elux LAB-ID is a very good example of this, because it’s very innovative and quite unique in the market but, at the same time, makes a lot of sense when you look at what Panerai has been about from the beginning. It’s about bridging innovation and history.
Above Anthony Serpry heads Research and Development at Panerai (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
Anthony Serpry heads Research and Development at Panerai (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
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Do tell us more about the latest work of Laboratorio di Idee.
The LAB-ID programme started in the early 2010s, and the objective behind each project is to push the limits of watchmaking. We essentially create a small team within our department, who combine very different skills and work intensively together for a longer period of time.
If you look at the first and the second LAB-IDs, the purpose of the development was to build the most durable watch out of advanced carbon-based material, meaning it could last for the longest time without needing any service. The third one, which we called the eLAB-ID, was all about sustainability; our target was to produce a watch with the lowest possible impact on the environment.
The Elux is our fourth one, and it’s all about luminosity. We’ve developed a watch that can light up on demand, powered by fully mechanical movement and energy storage. An important point to mention is that LAB-IDs are not just concept watches that look nice. We test each one extensively. For the Elux, that took us eight years, and the last three years were all about making it as readable as possible. It’s a watch that is made to be worn and not just a concept piece to put on display.
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Above The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 zeroes in on luminosity (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 zeroes in on luminosity (Image: Courtesy of Panerai)
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How would you describe your approach to exploring and inventing materials and movements for future models?
For us at Panerai, toughness is our main criterion. Second is the material’s distinctiveness but never at the expense of toughness. We want products that are ergonomic and easy to wear—for example, CarbotechTM or Ti-CeramitechTM give you some lightness—but at the same time, we want them to be very robust. During a visit to our manufacture, it is always one of the highlights for clients to see the lab, where we test all our products, movements and cases. Everything is rigorously tested and takes years to be developed, all so that we may provide the quality that our clients expect of Panerai.
Also, it may not be the first thing that you think of when you hear Panerai, but we also have a nice range of high-complication watches. Our perpetual calendar is made in a way that you can do all the settings with the crown, which is quite rare for this complication. It’s very readable; all the important information is on one line on the dial, and the rest is on the back. And again, it’s a movement that has been developed with the same robustness and performance criteria as we have for simpler movements.
Where do you see Panerai’s R&D heading in the next decade?
Continuing to push the boundaries in robustness, water resistance and luminosity, while expanding the size range. And of course, we will continue the LAB-ID programme to surprise our clients and the Paneristi in terms of what we can do.
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Trained as a student journalist, Mac’s knack for writing was a serendipitous discovery. Years later and she can’t imagine doing anything else. When she isn’t typing away on a story, she revels in being lost in a new city, revisiting a cosy film or sitcom, and idling away with her dogs.
