One to watch: Parmigiani Fleurier on the cusp of its 30th anniversary

Parmigiani’s expertise is largely thanks to its founder, Michel Parmigiani, a living legend of restoration. “I always say, restoration is the black belt of watchmaking,” imparts Terreni, “because you have to know deeply the history of the industry, and you have to master every single component and every single era.” This knowledge is the foundation of the maison’s discernable brilliance and transformation, colouring each detail on its watches, from the movements to the finishing.

The fresh, contemporary language of Terreni’s Parmigiani is not hard to miss among its 2025 novelties, all of which have been very well-received by collectors and novices alike. At Watches and Wonders 2025, the highly coveted Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was presented with a gorgeous dial in ‘Verzasca Green’, a colour inspired by crystal waters in the rivers of a valley in Switzerland. Inside the 40mm steel case beats the PF501 calibre, an automatic winding manufacture movement featuring a 22 carat rose gold micro-rotor with the brand’s signature Grain d’Orge guilloché. A world-first, the innovative split GMT function enables the intuitive display of two time zones for the well-heeled and dapper traveller.

Parmigiani also showcases its command of sporty chic this year with the introduction of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet. Available in the shades ‘London Grey’ and ‘Milano Blue’, it is the first watch entirely crafted from Cermet, a high-performance alloy used in aerospace as well as electrical and biomedical engineering. Unlike traditional ceramics that can appear flat or muted, the satin-polished anthracite case reflects light dynamically, creating ever-changing metallic reflections that respond to the environment. Under a blue sky, it may take on cooler tones, while under softer white light, it shifts toward grey. This gives the timepiece a living, interactive quality that is shared by several models in Parmigiani’s oeuvre.

Meanwhile, the Toric, which marked the brand’s debut in 1996 and returned for a new generation in 2024, endures as its take on the classic dress watch. The collection has been extended with a perpetual calendar on the Toric Quantieme Perpetuel, which is designed to present only the essential information in a clean, legible manner. The hour and minute hands remain the primary focus at a glance, while the calendar functions are subtly integrated into just two counters. “The purer the idea, the more powerful it is. Obviously, coupled with the colour, which is also getting a lot of attention,” shares Terreni, recounting how ‘Morning Blue’ on the latest Toric was a bit of a surprise, a mistake. “The colour was not exactly what we were asking for, but it was so beautiful that we kept it. And it is perfectly aligned with the palette of our collection, which is extremely serene, calm and long-lasting.”

Parmigiani also released two new references of the Toric Petite Seconde: ‘Platinum Golden Hour’ and ‘Rose Gold Dune’. Each one explores the brand’s nuanced approach to colour and material— capable of interacting with light and their environs like the Cermet. “It’s this chameleonic effect which is very intriguing and subtle,” says Terreni, echoing their pursuit of an elegance that feels fluid and refreshing.

Exciting times indeed for the maison, as it stands on the cusp of its 30th year while gaining steady momentum across Asia. Proud to share the success of recent years with a team loyal to the brand and its values, Terreni tells us: “It’s only been four years since the re-launch, and the life cycle of a product is theoretically infinite. So it’s the foundation of something that we hope will continue successfully in the future, and this is what we’re working for.”

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